Caporal

Overview

Geographical classification: Western Alps > Graie Alps > Gran Paradiso Group > Gran Paradiso Group Southern Sector > Caporal

 

 

 

Caporal

 

 

An imposing rocky complex formed by the projection of the grassy summit of La Merola rises on the right side (left orographic) of the upper Valle dell'Orco (aka Val Locana) just upstream of the valley bottom road near the inhabited center of Ceresole Reale: it is the Parete di Balma Fiorant.  The Orco valley, one of the finest of the Piedmont, gives access to the whole Gran Paradiso Group Southern sector, which compared to the Northern sector is characterized by the extraordinary quality of the rock and the milder and wetter climate in reason of its proximity to the plain. The vast rocky complex of Balma Fiorant, made up of excellent quality gneiss, consists of three main structures: Sergent, the closest wall to Ceresole, Caporal and Parete delle Aquile (Wall of the Eagles). 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Caporal, so called jokingly in reason of its analogy, much smaller, with the largest and most famous walls of the Yosemite Valley, was the first wall to be explored in the year 1972 and is probably the most famous wall not only of the Valle dell'Orco but of all the Piedmont. The high quality of the gneiss that characterizes the whole complex, a true stone-world, have made this place one of the highlights of the granite climbing in Italy.

 

 

Caporal rises slightly above the bends of the old road of the valley, before Ceresole Reale. Its shape is that of a huge and smooth granite block with a height of about 150 meters. Smaller than the neighbor Sergent, situated further upstream, it is however much more impressive, and as said it appears as a little model of the Californian Capitan.

 

Getting There

The closest inhabited centre is Ceresole Reale (km. 35 from Pont Canavese), in the high Valle dell'Orco, m. 1613, a nice village lying near the great artificial lake of Ceresole. 

Road access

- From Torino (Caselle international airport) reach Courgnè and Pont Canavese m. 461; from here follow the road entering Valle dell’Orco, reaching Locana, Rosone, Noasca. In Noasca drive up to Ceresole Reale, after the road bends enter the tunnel which about half way presents an exit towards the old road (on the left going up). Exit at the hole and park the car. 

- From Aosta take the Aosta-Torino motorway, exit Ivrea. From Ivrea follow the road towards Ciriè, reaching Pont Canavese. From here same access as the previous one.

Walking access

Parked the car, find a steep path with some cairns leading to the base of the wall.

Caporal main routes

The left end of the wall is characterized from a very smooth overhanging slab, Proceeding rightward it follows an enormous dihedral, the Diedro Nanchez, one of the most famous structures, often wet. The central part of the Caporal, facing South, is certainly the most majestic sector. It is a smooth wall, engraved with thin cracks, the Scudo (the Shield), where we find the majority of the climbing routes.

The main routes starting from left to right:

- Diedro Nanchez   6b (5a obbl), 160 m - Laura Trentaz, Roberto Bonelli, Danilo Galante, Gian Piero Motti, Piero Pessa 1974
- Tomahawk Dance  7c (7a obbl), 270 m - Massimo Farina, Ezio Marlier 2004
- Aquila della Notte  7b (6c obbl.), 175 m - Massimo Ala, Ugo Manera, Maurizio Oviglia 1998
- Colpo al cuore  8a (7a/A1), 230 m - Gabriele Bar, Claudio Bernardi 1992
- Bat  A3, 250 m - Valerio Folco, Massimo Farina 2002
- Strapiombi delle visioni  7b (5c/A0), 160 m - Danilo Galante, Gian Carlo Grassi 1974
- Tempi Duri  6c (5c/A2), 160 m - Alessandro Gogna, Leo Cerruti 1973
- Sole Nascente  7b (6a+/A2), 205 m - Gian Carlo Grassi, Mike Kosterlitz, Gian Piero Motti 1973 
- Il lungo cammino dei Comanches  7b+ (6a+/A2), 205 m - Danilo Galante, Andrea Gobetti, Gian Carlo Grassi, Guido Morello, Gian Piero Motti, Piero Pessa 1974
- Mangas Coloradas  7a+ (5c/A2+), 140 m - Daniele Caneparo, Maurizio Oviglia 1984
- Via dei Tempi Moderni 6c+ (5c obbl.), 230 m - Flavio Leone, Ugo Manera, Guido Morello, Gian Piero Motti 1972
- Rattle Snake  6c (6a obbl), 180 m - Massimo Ala, Bruno Fabretto, Franco Salino 1982
- Itaca nel Sole  8b (5a/A2), 200 m - Gian Piero Motti, Guido Morello 1975
- Orecchio del Pachiderma  6b (5a/A0) - Gabriele Bdeuchod, Roberto Bonelli, Luca Mozzati 1979
- Via dei Camini  6b (5a/A0), 200 m - Ugo Manera, Piero Pessa 1972
- Tapis Roulant  7a+ and A0, 200 m - E. Binsack, Claude and Yves Remy 1990
- Terra di Mezzo  5c/A3, 200 m - Vlerio Folco, Cristina Gaggini 2005
- Quel nuovo mattino  6b/A3+, 280 m - A. Riva, G. Vistarini, G. Berardino, D. Clerici 1996
- Aerospike  6b/A5, 200 m - Valerio Folco, Antonio Pozzi, Japoco Bufacchi, Stefano Bigio 2000
- Via della Rivoluzione  7c+ (6a+/A2+), 150 m - Gian Piero Motti, Ugo Manera 1973
- Crazy Horse   6c/A2, 150 m - E. Cavallo and Co.
- Il sogno di Jack  6a/A4, 200 m - R. Buccella, J. Bufacchi, Valerio Folco 1997-1998
- Via Spigolo SE  6b (5a/A1), 200 m - Flavio Leone, Ugo Manera 1973 

Descent: the descent is done abseiling along the routes "Rattle Snake", "Diedro Nanchez", "Via della Rivoluzione" and "Crazy Horse".

History

The Balma fiorant rocky complex was discovered in 1972 by Ugo Manera and Gian Piero Motti. The first route was opened right on Caporal, which was therefore the first rock structure of Balma Fiorant to be explored. The route was called "Tempi Moderni".

Red Tape

No permits, no fees and no particulary restrictions in climbing. The mountain is located inside Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, established in 1922, one of most important National Parks in Italy. You should take care of nature as usual within the boundaries of all the natural parks. Free camping is not allowed and fires are strictly forbidden. The whole fauna and flora are protected. Don’t disturb fauna and other mountaineers’ peacefulness with every kind of noise.

When to Climb

The best period goes from May to October

Where to stay

Different possibilities of accomodation in Comune di Ceresole Reale:

- Hotels
- Huts
- Campings

Meteo

Meteo Regione Piemonte
Meteo Alpi

Guidebooks

"Valle dell'Orco" by Maurizio Oviglia - Collana Luoghi Verticali, Ed. Versante Sud 2010

“Rock Paradise – Arrampicate classiche, moderne e sportive nelle valli del Gran Paradiso” by Maurizio Oviglia – Collana Luoghi Verticali, Ed. Versante Sud

External Links

Parco Nazionale Gran Paradiso