Corno della Marogna NW Ridge winter ascent

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Corno della Marogna
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Corno della Marogna NW Ridge winter ascent

Page Type:	Route
Lat/Lon:	45.83773°N / 10.70633°E
Route Type:	Mountaineering
Season:	Winter
Time Required:	Half a day
Difficulty:	Alpine F+
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Overview

Corno della Marogna NW ridge from Rifugio Garda

The steep Corno della Marogna 1953 m, belonging to the Prealpi Bresciane e Gardesane, Tremalzo chain and located between the provinces of Trento and Brescia, offers a fine winter ascent on the Trentino side looking to Passo Tremalzo. It's a pleasant snowy ridge, interesting even if short, in fact, it can be done in half a day with departure from the Rifugio Garda near Passo Tremalzo. It is necessary to inquire about the state of the snowpack, as the itinerary must only be tackled with settled snow.

Together with the nearby Monte Tremalzo, Corno della Marogna forms a couple of important summits, exceeded by altitude only by Monte Caplone, also located within the Parco Regionale Alto Garda Bresciano. This pre-alpine area is a popular destination in winter for the enchanting landscape and the beauty of the various activities in the snow with skis, snowshoes or crampons on the white snow, which covers this part of the valley in the colder months.

Getting There

Road access

From Riva del Garda we follow the state road that leads to Val di Ledro through two long tunnels. After the village of Biacesa the road reachs the Lago di Ledro near the village of Molina. The road runs along the northern shore of the lake, reaching Pieve di Ledro, then Bezzecca, Tiarno di Sopra and Tiarno di Sotto. We are finally at a second smaller lake on the left of the road: it is the Lago d'Ampola, a protected biotope due to its particular flora and fauna. Immediately after we leave the main road, to turn left at the signpost "Passo Tremalzo". The road rises with numerous hairpin bends reaching the Passo Tremalzo in little more than 10 kilometers. Just over the pass near the Rifugio Garda 1702 m. the road is closed to the motor vehicles. On the right we can leave the car in a large parking lot.

Route Description

Corno della Marogna NW ridge from Rifugio Garda

Summit elevation: 1953 m
Difficulty: F+
Difference in level: 250 m from the refuge
Starting point: Rifugio Garda 1686 m

From the Garda Refuge, the ascent follows the first stretch of the former military road built by the Italians during the First World War rising from the Tremalzo Pass to the Bocca di Val Marza 1788 m, or alternatively keeping on the easy snow slopes located on the left a few tens of meters above the road.

Starting to climb the slopes of Corno della Marogna

Proceeding slightly uphill you reach the wide saddle between Monte Tremalzo on the left and Corno della Marogna on the right, the Bocca di Val Marza 1788 m. From the saddle proceed for a short distance along the line of the military cart track and, before the tunnel, at a bend to the left, leave the cart track line and begin to climb directly on steep slopes towards the Corno della Marogna.

Climbing the slope we just arrive nearby the wide saddle between the Corno della Marogna on the right and the Belvedere della Marogna on the left. From here we proceed slightly to the right to climb directly the wide and steep rounded ridge which straightens further near the summit.

With the last steeper stretch we reach the narrow summit ridge and the summit marker to the right.

Corno della Marogna from Belvedere della Marogna

Descent: the return is done reversing the same route until the saddle between Corno della Marogna and the nearby minor summit called Belvedere della Marogna. From here it is worthwhile with a short detour to climb also this small summit. Back on the saddle coming from the Belvedere you can go down the slope of the upclimb (to the right facing out) or go down to the left (facing out). In this latter case after the descent you will be on the SE side of the war tunnel, which will have to be traversed to return to the NW side of the mountain. From here in short to the Bocca di Val Marza and the Refuge Garda.

Essential Gear

Winters clothes, crampons, ice axe

Red Tape

No fees no permits required. All the Tremalzo chain is located inside the Parco Regionale Alto Garda Bresciano. The Tremalzo area is famous for its biodiversity, there are in fact 21 endemics, plants and flowers including the Daphne Petraea and the Silena Elisabethae.