Dreamy
Field of Dreams is a classic Grade 5 pillar with a couple of good lines.
Getting There
Take the Trans-Canada Highway from Banff toward Field. The climb will be visible on your right. Just about 3 kilometers before town, turn right onto Yoho Valley Road and park where the gate blocks the road. Snowshoe or ski the road for about an hour. You can’t see the climbs for several kilometers but eventually the road brings you directly across from the Pillars. If you’re lucky there’ll be a track crosscountry to the routes. If not, wallow up hill.
The area is subject to extreme avalanche hazard, so if unfamiliar with current conditions it’s wise to stop at the Information Centre at the entrance to town, which is open daily and where the staff usually has a good idea of what’s in-shape and safe.
It’s nice to write your intended climb in the dust on the back of your car or truck.
Route Description
Walk pass the Pillars (WI4) to the big flow just to its right, which is Field of Dreams.
Solo easy steps to an obvious belay spot on the right.
Climb 50 meters to a tree on the left, where you can rap off.
We did two lines. Up the center was a steep, sustained pumpfest with a Thank God rest about three quarters of the way up. Up left was fun, cruiser climbing until you reach a corner with overhanging, technical moves and good stems.
Climb the Pillars if you have any energy left.
Betty’s Pillar is another 45 meter WI5 climb further up the cliff to the right. Looks good but we didn’t climb it.
Essential Gear
Ten or so screws, tools, 60 meter ropes, maybe skis or snowshoes for the approach.
links
The best online source for area climbing beta is:
Gravsports
For Yoho NP info:
Yoho National Park