Mount Gog East Ridge

Overview

The East ridge of Mount Gog is one of the best and one of the few moderate rock mountaineering routes in the Bear River Range. It makes for a fun day, and is best done in the fall before snow starts flying although the coloir that the 5th pitch meets up with could be an interesting steep snow climb.

FA: Ethan MacKay and Mitchell Beacham 10/15/2022 ?

Getting There

The route is most easily approached Via Tony Grove on the White Pine Lake trail. Hike to the intersection of the White Pine Lake and Bunchgrass trails, then continue down (east) on the Bunchgrass trail for about a quarter mile before turning off the trail and bushwhacking up toard the east ridge of Mount Gog. Total Trail distance: roughly 4 miles, 900ft elevation gain, 620ft elevation loss. About 1.25 hours. Total bushwhack distance from trail to base of climb .3 miles, 400ft elevation gain. About 30 mintues.  

Route Description

Start in the most prominent crack about 40 feet to the climbers left of the east most point on the rock face. The crack affords some quality hand jams with plenty of facial features and opportunities for placement. 

P1: (40M) Start up the crack that trends climbers right. Continue up as the crack works its way into more of a chimney with a nice hand sized crack. Near the top, the chimney widens, then quickly constricts, pushing the limber out on the face for the crux of this pitch. The move onto the face can be protected with a #1 nut. After a couple of face moves, top out into a low angle chimney full of loose rock. Build an anchor in here, or if you have enough rope and the rope drag is manageable, continue up and out to set yourself up nicely for the next pitch. Mostly low 5th climbing with a could 5.5 moves.

P2: (25M) After leaving the small, gravel filled chimney, you will be spit out into another chimney going up to the climbers left. The leftmost crack in this chimney is a clean, wide-hand sized crack, with some fun, 5.6 moves. This pitch tops out on the mid-step, where anchor building may be challenging. 

P3: (35m)From the top of the Mid Step, traverse to the climbers left. The first part involves some low 5th class moves that are somewhat difficult to protect. The rock here is crumbly and loose, so take the time to make sure your holds aren't going to rip off. After getting around the next prominent outcropping, the ledge widens and turns into more of a 3rd class scramble over loose scree. If you choose to protect this section, protection is difficult to come by. Building an anchor midway through the ledge is best done by slinging blocks on any one of the rock outcroppings along the bottom edge of the ledge. Make sure the blocks are solid though. 

P4: (40m) Continue along the loose scree ledge and into the big chute. All 3rd class. Protection is difficult but not necessary as falling over the edge of the ledge here is not very likely. Lots of cool rock formations and fossils here, including an arch on the other side of the chute. 

P5: (40m) low 5th class moves to get over a boulder at the start, then a bit more scree as you continue up the chute. Start working your way up the face to the right once rasonable for some 4th class moves, then top on the first big step. The top is a big, flat slab of rock, and a nice place to sit and enjoy a snack before hiking and scrambling up the ridge to the second big step. 

P6: Once at the bottom of the second step, you can choose from multiple chute and spines to get to the top. We chose to go up the 2nd chute to the climbers left, which was mostly 3rd and 4th class scrambling. We did not feel the need to protect this section. The first chute to the climbers left looks to have more 4th and maybe low 5th class climbing if you want a little more of an adventure. This scrambly pitch is about 100m, but could easily be broken into smaller pitches depending on your rope length. 

From the top of the second step it is an easy walk to the summit. 

Walk off via the southwest ridge.

Essential Gear

Single rack of cams up to BD #3 or 4 and some nuts should feel comfortable for most people. 

Crampons and Ice axe if attempting any variation of this route in winter or spring.

External Links

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