Mount Neptuak

Overview/Approach

Samual Allen named Mount Neptuak after the Stoney First Nations word which means “nine”, Mount Neptuak being the ninth mountain of the Valley of the Ten Peaks from east to west and south to north. The Kaufmann brothers, guiding Herschel Parker, made the first ascent of Mount Deltaform in 1903. It is my understanding that they bypassed the Northwest Ridge of Mount Neptuak to achieve the col between the two mountains before summiting Mount Deltaform. It would be hard to pin down the precise first ascent of Mount Neptuak, however, the first recorded ascent of Mount Deltaform’s summit via a summit of Mount Neptuak (and thus Neptuak’s northwest ridge) did occur in 1961 by Greenwood and Boles. Mount Neptuak has no published routes and the northwest ridge is really just a prelude to climbing Mount Deltaform's northwest ridge. However, Mount Neptuck's northwest ridge is ever bit the climb as other published routes in the region, i.e. Pinnacle Mountain's, southwest ridge, II, 5.6.

Park at the Moraine Lake Lodge at 6181’. (at the end of Moraine Lake Road from Lake Louise Village below Valley of the Ten Peaks). Follow the Larch Valley Trail which heads up to Sentinel Pass. At a marked trail junction, turn left following the Wenkchemna Pass trail to the pass itself. Turn left to start the climb of Mount Neptuak and Mount Deltaform via their northwest ridges.

Route Description(s)

Northwest Ridge- II, 5.5/

This is a 4500’+/- accumulated elevation trip. The broad amount of 4th and 5th class choss up the northwest ridge of Mount Neptuak varies in difficulty and exposure but really only consisted of one pitch worthy of a rope and gear. Three out of four of us in my group climbed this entire ridge solo. Dow

When to Climb

I did a full traverse of Mount Neptuak and Mount Deltaform during the month of August. We had a dusting of snow along the entire route. There is enough fourth and fifth class along the northwestern ridge, particularly towards the summit of Mount Deltaform, that it would be best to do this ridge in as dry of conditions as possible.

External Links

100’s of Canmore and Banff National Park multi-pitch rock climbs, ice climbs, alpine climbs and scrambles, just scroll down to routes

Banff National Park, Parks Canada

Best Eats in Canmore: Iron Goat, tons of organic/free range fare, my favorite is the game meat loaf. As good as prices as anywhere really and the staff is made up of a few aspiring climbers. The main man works his heart out making everything run smooth, not a given in Canmore. Best dining views (and sunny outdoor seating) in town bar none, from Mount Lougheed to Mount Rundle traverses, two of my trademark beta contributions near the town of Canmore. True best of the best mountain local dining experience.

Best Eats in Banff: The Bison, all organic/free range fare, with a detailed description of their suppliers. Recently expanded (2010), I recommend sticking with the downstairs. Better menu, prices and social ambience. Maybe retire to the bar upstairs for sunset or late night. Bison chili is amazing!

Best Coffee in Canmore: Beamers, the locals favorite, super wholesome lunch stuff, local guys, no attitude on service

Best Climbers Hangout: Summit Café, most likely place to find me or my brethren shooting the bull about beta. Best breakfast place in town, good coffee as well, serve Mennonite meats from Valbella, which is the best place to buy free range products anywhere in the world, right here in Canmore.

Climbing Gear: All way too expensive in the Bow Valley, but if you must, Mountain Magic in Banff is far superior to service and actual knowledge about climbing than the two in Canmore.

Images

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