Techno

I've owned several pairs of Mythos, and when these first appeared I figured they were just another mythos clone.

But after climbing in them a while I'm pretty impressed. They edge and smear pretty well for an "all day" shoe. They are comfortable in cracks. I like the XS Grip rubber too.

Sizing: My toes are somewhat wide and I have narrow heels. My feet measure 9.5 US / 42.5 EU and the left is a little longer than the right (I'm told that's typical for right-handed people). Initially I bought a pair of these in 41.5, thinking they would stretch after a few days of climbing, but that didn't happen -- too tight. Later I went with size 42 instead, which is about perfect for me.

My pair fit tightly, but I think this is one of the best shoes since the old scarpa purple dominator. Like the mythos, the techno has a strap on the back allowing one to control for streatching. The shoes edge well, and have excellent construction, and the same ability to point the toe as the old dominator. The rubber seems harder than the 5.10 stealth rubber, but seems to hold just as well. I found too that buying them at normal size worked best as they fit tightly, and can be controlled for stretching. I don't last more than a pitch or too without taking them off at the belay with 42s on my relatively wide US size 10 1/2 feet.

When my friends are all peeling off their shoes between routes to relieve pain, I can't really relate to them. The Techno has been a super comfortable shoe in terms of all-day comfort. They have performed solidly in the climbing gym, on granite, on Gunks conglomerate, and even slate (yes, I tried slate...). They've contoured very nicely to my feet. I haven't had the problems with big air pockets developing in the shoe upon tightening; I had this problem when trying the Evolv Defy shoes--those combo moccasins w/velcro.