Over Easy (Middle Spire)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 38.78470°N / 120.2208°W
Additional Information Route Type: Technical Rock Climb
Additional Information Time Required: Less than two hours
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 1
Sign the Climber's Log

Approach

Follow approach trail from parking area - 15 minutes or less - to the north side of Middle Spire.

Route Description

There are several possible starts : lieback up the triangular flake, chimney up between the face and the flake, or use the vertical 5.7 crack first.

Then head up the face to a bolt, up over a roof with HUGE holds, and finally up the jugs (very gym-like), traversing somewhat left near the top to a set of anchor bolts / chains. Rappel off to descend.



You can also continue up the obvious arete from the anchors to a bolted 5.10b route called The Prow, which is balancy, airy fun !

Essential Gear

SuperTopo recommends cams in the 0.75-3.5" range, plus extra slings to tie off knobs / jugs.

Miscellaneous Info

Supertopo route beta page is here.

Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.