Summer Solstice

Introduction

The south face of Lone Pine Peak has several routes that refer to seasons; Winter Route, Autumn Ledges, Summer Ridge, Winter Chimney. Just after the summer solstice of 2005, we climbed a new route and chose a name to fit into the area.

Approach

First ascent of the Summer Solstice (III, 5.8/9) on June 25, 2005 by Joe LeMay and Miguel Carmona. Summer Solstice is on the orange face on the eastern part of the south face of Lone Pine Peak. This is the same face that Club Alpin Francais and Autumn Ledges are on.

The route climbs 9 pitches. On the first ascent we approached from the trailhead and completed it in 14 hours car-to-car.

From the Stone House, traverse horizontally toward the north fork of Tuttle Creek. Cross the creek at the large drainage from the western part of the south face of Lone Pine Peak.

Ascend the drainage leading toward the orange wall. Pass the left drainage for the Winter Route and continue up and then left to the orange wall. At the wall on the left is a huge right facing corner that is Dynamo Hum. Then to the right is a left facing corner/chimney that marks the Club Alpin Francais. Just to the right of the French route corner, there is a lone triangular symmetrical fir tree that marks the start of the Autumn Ledges.

Just below the fir tree for Autumn Ledges is a ledge that runs up and right. From the left, gain the ledge and follow it to its end (3rd class). There will be a large left facing corner farther to your right. You will be ½ pitch below a slender fir at this point. This is the start of Summer Solstice.

Route Description

Summer Solstice climbs to the slender fir then up through an easy ramp for 160 ft. (5.4). Continue up flaring cracks to a ledge for 140 ft. (5.3). Move the belay up 70 ft (4th) to a large ledge with a right facing corner on the left and a left facing corner on the right. Climb the left facing corner past a small bush, traverse right onto the face, and climb flaring cracks to a ledge (5.8). Move up cracks, traverse left back into the left facing corner and up the corner to another ledge (5.8). Ascend a short distance to a ledge, traverse the ledge right for 60 ft. and climb the left facing corner to its top (5.7). Ascend up then right through discontinuous ledges then back left to a ledge for 160 ft. (5.7). There will be a roof to the right of this belay. Continue up features, ascend cracks and a face (5.9), traverse left for 30 ft. then up a lieback to a ledge (100 ft). Move up the flaring crack to other cracks and to the summit ledge for 165 ft. (5.9). You will be directly above the fir tree that marked the start of roped climbing.

Move right on the ledge and you are a short way down the east descent. Descend the east slopes (class 2) back to your car.

Essential Gear

Climbing gear:
1 set stoppers from #2
TCUs #00-3
1 set rigid friends up to #3 1/2
#6-9 Hexes
50m rope

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

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