Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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50.05472°N / 126.10091°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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D |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.8 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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10 |
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Grade:
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III |
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Overview
Climbs the straight 500m couloir that splits the centre of Victoria Peak's west face. For a gully this is a surprisingly clean route, other than a little gravel on ledges the steeper terrain doesn't collect much choss and the rock is for the most part excellent. Highly recommended climb.Getting There
Can be approached from either the White River via the west knoll as per the approach to Warden Peak and the north face of Victoria Peak, or from the Gold River East Main Road to the lower south ridge and descend off the ridge to the base of the west face.Route Description
P1- Gain the base of the gully either direct if the snow cone is high enough, or take a right-trending shallow corner. Steep moves to reach a wide ledge (5.8)P2 - Scramble right over wide ledges to the base of a short, steep wall.
P3 - Climb up the wall and over several short steps (5.7)
P4 - From here the gully narrows and the route climbs the back wall on excellent rock. Climb a series of short steps
P5 - Climb direct up excellent face to a belay ledge (5.8)
P6 - Climb a water polished corner or cracks to the left to reach an alcove (5.7)
P7 - Stem out of the alcove and climb up a corner and then direct (5.8)
P8 - The couloir narrows to a chimney above the belay, head left up a steep wall to reach a gully with some loose rock (5.8)
P9 - Climb the gully direct to a steep step and exciting moves up a corner slab.
P10 - Climb more slab and then up blocky ground to gain the crest of the upper west ridge.
Scramble up the top part of the west ridge to the summit and descend the regular route down the south face.