Afentis Stavromenos by bus from Agios Nikolaos

The Thrypti Mountains in one day

I start the trip in the morning getting on around 8.00 to the bus in Agios Nikolaos. Just over half an hour later, I reach the village of Kavousi, where I plan to start climbing. It's beautiful weather, lots of sun, a few distant clouds in the sky. Certainly during the day it will be hot, but for now it is ok. From Kavousi, I go straight up the marked trail going up the streets, on the way I pass a picturesque little church and I am already above the village, walking along a path among olive orchards. The path and trail go straight, quite steeply up, crossing several times with a gentler climbing road. It is quite early and empty - I can hear and see only a few goats grazing in the distance. The first stop is at monumental olive tree of Kavusi. The tree is really impressive, the trunk is so huge, and although I remember that the oldest olive tree in the world I saw in Albania too, it is definitely a place worth visiting. The tree is estimated to be at least 3250 years old, so it's almost as old as the Knossos Palace!

The olive orchards are slowly vanishing above the tree and the rocks begin, the path becomes steeper. Turning back, I have breathtaking views in front of me - the orchards below me, further the village and some greenery, trees, in the distance the blue sea and the second shore of the bay with the mainland on the horizon.

After reaching the height of 800 m, I enter the pass and again I am on the dirt road now. In the distance, my next destination - scattered loosely at the mountain slope - the village of Thrypti, According to the guide it is inhabited only seasonally, when Cretan people can grow and collect olives or graze goats. Access to the village by a road leads through beautiful, picturesque surroundings - around the majestic mountains, empty but the large flying birds (propably eagles), the heat begins to pour from the sky. After that I found Thrypti very lively. At the main intersection, there is a tavern, two groups of locals sit in front of it, smile and greet me. In the tavern I order beer and from a silent bartender I get 4 starters, everything dripping with olive oil. Before I manage to eat, the only tourist I met that day enters the bar - a German from Bavaria, who came from the bottom on the other side of the road to Ierapetra and does not go up to the top, but plans to go down to the Ha Gorge. We drink beer and chat a while, two tourists from Central Europe on a distant island.

From the village of Thrypti you can get to the top by a road or a steep path. I choose the second option, leave the road for way back. It is more than 500 m approach, at the beginning in a pleasant coniferous forest (one surprise – just oustide the village the trail is cut by a fence extending in both directions, but I manage to squeeze underneath), then steeply over the rocks. In the back the views are even more breathtaking, because you can see more and more mountains, and in the background still the sea. Just before the summit at an altitude of over 1,400 m, there is a small flattening and there I meet a climbing road, which leads me finally to the top of the mountain. I am alone there, not counting some stray, grazing goats and sheep. The aggregate at the transmitting mast, however, works. At the top, beyond it, there is a small church, Timiou Staurou, and an old stone roof, which is suitable for a tourist shelter. Amazing views on both sides - on all sides of the mountain, on two sides - from the north and south seas, in the west to this brilliantly flat surroundings, the access valley to Ierapetra.

From the summit, I descend to the north through a dirt road, winding picturesquely down the slope and reach the E4 route that crosses Crete from east to west. I plan to go down this route to civilization. To start with, I return to Thrypti again, this time at the intersection, I take the road down towards Ierapetra. Unfortunately, like almost everywhere in Greece, the markings of the routes leave a lot to be desired. I use the map and GPS, but I'm not misled and follow asphalt road instead of turning to the right in the direction of the Ha Gorge. When I see I had left the trail, I have to turn right and follow the forest roads again to return to the trail, which eventually I find somewhere above the chapel of St. Anne. Next the road is already straight - down, on the right, having a huge canyon, on the left a forest. At some point, at the end of the tree line I get to the another road (it's easy to get lost here and choose it), however, the path goes more and more, turns south and slowly goes down leads me along the mountain chain. Now I have the Ierapetra lowering on the right hand I see the famous greenhouses supplying all of Europe with spring vegetables, national road leading to the south and several villages. At some point, the path turns 180 degrees, turns into a dirt road and leads north to Monastiraki, which is a settlement with several houses on the slope. Since it is already around 3:00 PM, I do not stop because I have to get to the road and try to find a bus stop or hitchhike. This time, the road leads again between olive groves, with the Gorge of Ha in the back, the majestic view - big V on the horizon. I reach the alphalt road and turn north, going towards Pachia Ammos. After about 2 km and probably 30 unsuccessful attempts to stop the car with a pair of German tourists who half hour later drop me in Agios Nikolaos.

Summing up - the route is almost 30 km, with the approach of almost 1500 m up, which means at least medium condition. Thanks to the use of KTEL buses, it is possible to start and finish in another place, which is a big advantage - you do not need to make a loop.