After the Before Time, 5.9+, 5 Pitches

Overview/Approach

This route receives a recommendation in the local guide (“another little treat on this wall that has long been overlooked”).  I am not sure why.  Its first pitch starts from the ground, not from the typical access ledge to the southeast face routes on Out of Towners.  Therefore, you have to either rap in from the northern edge of the ledge off of gear or bushwhack around the base of the formation to the start.  In winter, the base of this first pitch is typically wet and can hold snow.  The first pitch is barely more interesting than a scramble as you slide under and around trees.  I combined it with what I perceive to be the real first pitch (the pitch that starts at the end of the approach ledge) for one full 70m rope length pitch to the base of the off-width pitch.  The off width, if clean, would be an interesting pitch.  But as of 2024 it is filled with small trees and mud.  The first three pitches of this route will be wet if you have had any recent moisture at all on the east side.  The 4^th and 5^th pitch recommended variation does at least offer one decent pitch of crack climbing and raises the published grade from 5.8+ to 5.9+.  The 4^th pitch is just moving the rope off of one ledge, traversing another and landing below a ramp/crack that is the 5^th (variation) pitch.  The local guide calls the crack option 5.9+ but it felt 5.9 max in terms of technical difficulty.  It does however offer a short stint of steep crack climbing.  The rest of this pitch offers enjoyable 5.8 climbing to the top rap anchor on this section of the wall. 

Head up the canyon below Entrance, Exit, and Wasteland Domes.  Stay relatively low, closer to the creek bottom, as you approach the better traveled option of turning up hill for Wasteland.  This avoids some serious bushwhacking.  Cross the drainage, which will be flowing much of winter.  Locate sparse cairns on a light climber’s trail that heads up to the south face of Out of Towners.  It is a hump by Cochise standards.  Once through the larger trees protecting the base of the formation, locate the lower of two ledge systems (home to several routes including Matt's Line and El Cautivo) and traverse across the southeast face to the end of this ledge.  The 2^nd pitch of this route starts there, but you can easily set up a medium gear rappel and rap to the base of the formation with a single 70m to do the first pitch.  I advise saving this route for one of your last options of something new on this formation.  I love off width, but there is little to it on this route and the rest of it is not that exciting but rather offers plenty of trees, dirt and moisture.

Route Description

1^st-2^nd Pitches- 225’-5.7+/ Either rap off of gear at the northern edge of the main ledge or bushwhack around the eastern base of Out of Towners dome.  You can rap with a single 70m and can clean your gear rap at the top of the 1st pitch.  This first pitch really detracts from the route as it is more scrambling than climbing.  Rap down and start on the left side of the large and wide right facing corner.  Climb through brush up to three horizontal cracks trending up and right.  Walk the lower one over to the arete and start climbing the corner/crack proper to where you would have rapped in.  For the 2nd pitch, continue up the seem above which can be west in the winter.  Land a ledge below the obvious dog leg OW above. 

3^rd Pitch- 120’-5.8+/ Climb the straight up crack system and traverse left to the OW left facing corner.  This pitch is filled with dirt and trees and makes it impossible to climb it without wrestling through several of them as of 2024.  If you brought wide gear you can place it on this pitch but there was always ample opportunity for medium pieces as well.  Enter the dirty crack and get above the trees.  The crux is working up a three walled corner for a second with a chicken wing for security.  You land a very bushy ledge and must trample the trees and bushes to the left to reach a fixed rap anchor on El Cautivo. 

4^th Pitch- 90’- 5.6/ This is the published start to the modern variation finish of this route straightening it out and offering a decent 5.9+ crack option on the next pitch.    Continue walking up the ledge left to the next El Cauvito descent rap hangers.  Extend a sling on this fixed rap and mantle straight up to a broad sloping ledge and traverse back right to a boulder and climb it on its left side to a cactus laden ledge below an obvious tree infested weakness/ramp. 

5^th Pitch- 160’- 5.9+/ Climb the ramp and in about 20’ take on the vertical, but well featured, crack.   Climb it at the grade for a few meters and then continue straight up a wider seam below the grade.  Pass a tree on its right and then continue up a steep crack to the right side of the top of this wall.  Traverse left to the fixed top rap on El Cauvito,

Climbing Sequence

Descent

The 5th pitch angles left to the top rap anchor at this end of the wall.  Short rap from the top to the next fixed rap anchor on a sloping ledge.  Make a full single 70m rap back to the fixed rap you clipped before traversing right on the broad sloping ledge of the 4^th pitch.  Make a short 40’ rap back down to the top of the 3^rd pitch.  Make a 100’ rap down to a broad ledge.  Make a full single 70m rap back to the approach ledge.  Just gets you down climbers left.

Essential Gear

Single 70m rope.  The local guide calls for doubles to #6.  That is overkill for sure.  A single to #5 worked great for me.  An extra #4 and/or #5 might be helpful for someone pushing the grade.  Route gets sun most all day in winter.