Sole Man, 5.9+, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Sole Man is not near challenging as Ladies Man, but the top two pitches can be combined for a stellar lead on good and varied rock.  The sequential stemming moves through the first ten meters of the 2^nd pitch are full on for the grade and more challenging than several 5.10- pitches on this wall.  I combined these top two pitches on lead with double 60m’s along with one meter of simul climbing by my 2^nd.  This whole wall is better served with a single 70 rope than doubles as the book and MP.com suggest.  The 1^st pitch is nothing overly interesting, just another bolted face climb necessary to reach the better climbing up high on this wall, which is typical for most of the routes on Exit Dome.  The local guide discusses double #4’s along with a #5 for the 5.4 3^rd pitch, but most leading at this grade in Cochise will be fine just clipping the 2^nd pitch anchor and running it out to the 3^rd pitch anchor with a slung feature here or there.  The 3^rd pitch is basically a scramble.

There are conflicting opinions on the best approach option to Exit Dome routes in the guide and on MP.com.  The best way to approach all of the Exit Dome routes is simply to head into the canyon as you would for Entrance Dome, which means you will be leaving the wash early to start following cairns up and right as though you were heading for the SE facing Entrance Dome routes, i.e., Full Circle.  Approximately 100’ before you reach Full Circle (the base of Entrance Dome’s SE face) traverse left at the top of a gully and follow intermittent cairns (2023) west as you circumvent Entrance Dome.  The trick is not to be sucked to high as you traverse through brush, but also not to lose any elevation.  Eventually several small fins of rock start to protrude.  Gain the top of these slick rock opportunities to avoid brush and make it to a cave like atmosphere created by a very large fin of rock laying at the center of the south face of Exit Dome.  Iron Man, Ladies Man and Sole Man all start here.  There is one bolt line to the east that is Maintenance Man, which is not a worthy route.  Iron Man and Ladies Man share the same fixed rap stations. When climbing Sole Man, which is a three-pitch route, you can rap west into a gully formed by the massive fin below and climb Grain Surgery, JenEric Stain, Trigger Happy and Cave Man which all share the same top rap station with Sole Man.  When finished, you can rap back to the start of Ladies Man, Sole Man and Iron Man where it is best to leave your packs.   

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 125’-5.8+/ Fully and well bolted pitch.  You end up at rap hangers at the left end of the same narrow grassy ledge that has the first anchor for Iron and Ladies Man.  Nothing extraordinary.  The crux is the last few meters to the ledge. 

2nd- 3^rd Pitches- 205’-5.9+/ Angle up and left into the obvious weakness.  Sustained sequential stemming and thoughtful movement through the first 10 meters with a mix of bolts and gear.  Larger features start to show up that can be slung along with bolts to another set of rap anchors on low angled ground just left of the large left facing corner.  Scramble up to the wall above with another set of rap anchors, located right above a tunnel through arch that leads to Crack Man and other routes high up on Entrance Dome. 

Descent

A 70m will get you down a variety of ways.  A smart clean way to go down is to rap the short 3^rd pitch.  Then rap to the 1^st pitch anchor on Grain Surgery.  Then rap to atop a fin of rock in the treed and shaded gully below and climb JenEric Stain and/or Cave Man back to the top of Sole Man.  To get back to your packs, rap Sole Man with a single 70m.  

Essential Gear

70m rope.  Dozen draw/sling mix.  A few cams, small to medium.  Route gets full sun.  Hiking poles for the approach are recommended.