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2329 Hits
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73.06% Score
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3 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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30.49926°N / 98.82645°W |
Activities:
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Trad Climbing, Toprope, Bouldering, Scrambling |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
Elevation:
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1500 ft / 457 m |
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Overview
Although All-Bran Wall has one of the shortest and easiest approaches of all the established climbing sites at Enchanted Rock (excluding boulders), few know of it and even fewer climb there, probably because rock quality is poor for leading and because there are no bolts.
Experienced trad climbers, though, can set gear anchors for several short toprope routes ranging from 5.4 to 5.9 featuring slabs and flakes. Thus, All-Bran Wall is a nice place to spend a few hours climbing in peace and quiet in a park that on nice days frequently closes due to overcrowding. Routes range from 30-50' in length.
The local guidebook does not list named routes, and Mountain Project has only one (Morning Flakes, 5.6), but it is easy to stand at the base, identify lines, and then go set anchors.
Part of an area called the Morning Veranda (best known for a bouldering site called the Burbs), All-Bran Wall gets afternoon sun, making it a good location for summer mornings and winter afternoons.
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Getting There
Just before the last campsite on the north side of the campground, there is a trail dropping to a creek (often dry). Cross the creek and then scramble a little until reaching an obvious slab. You might find a trail leading to the slab. Follow the slab until you reach the top/backside of All-Bran Wall. Use the pictures below if it is your first time visiting the wall.
There is an easy way down from the top. Approach time is about 10 minutes.
Another approach ends at the base, but the one I have described is easier to find and follow.
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Routes
As I noted in the overview section, I know of only one named route here (Morning Flakes, 5.6), but I have climbed six distinct lines here. From left to right as you face the crag, here they are with descriptions and estimated grades:
- On the left side of the wall is a prominent dihedral/crack. Follow this and then do harder moves on the face until reaching a large ledge. 5.9
- Just right of the dihedral, use different features to reach a fun layback flake and then reach the ledge. 5.7
- Slab just right of a small tree growing against the wall. The direct start has very poor feet, and it is easier but delicate to start a bit right and then traverse to the better line. 5.9+
- Slab just left of Morning Flakes. Like the slab to the left, its hardest parts are on the lower half. 5.8
- Morning Flakes-- obvious flake on the right side leading to easy slab and a ledge above. 5.6
- Slab just right of Morning Flakes. Shortest of these six lines, good for kids and slab newcomers. 5.4
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Red Tape
There is an $8 daily entrance fee (per adult).
Climbers and rappelers are required to sign in. You are not required to pay a fee, get a permit, or list where you will be climbing; but you have to name the members of your party, note your climbing dates, and sign a waiver.
Periodically, the park closes for permitted hunts. Check the park website (final section below) for these and other possible closure periods.
The state parks now have an online system for reserving day passes up to 30 days in advance, and reservations are required here.
When to Climb
All year if you know the sun and shade patterns.
Camping
The park has a campground and also allows primitive camping (backpacking) in designated zones. Reservations are strongly recommended. See the park website.
There is also camping 7 miles away at Frontier Outpost and 13 miles away at Oxford Ranch. Both sites are privately owned. Fees are $5 and starting at $8 per night per person, respectively.