Ashtar Command, 5.9, 2 Pitches

Ashtar Command, 5.9, 2 Pitches

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 37.21060°N / 112.9614°W
Additional Information Route Type: Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.9
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 2
Sign the Climber's Log

Approach

The route raps (to the left) with a 70m rope no worries.
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Proceed south up a maintained trail to the base of Ashtar Command Tower (Tower). This trail really breaks away in the sand at places, but the park appreciates climbers using the same path versus just charging up the hill. Once on the eastern side of the Tower, the Ashtar Command route follows a two pitch line straight up the eastern face and then traverses right to a closely bolted varnished face. Feeling Minnesota is to the right following the corner on up for one pitch. Ground Control is around the right corner.

Route Description

The first pitch requires gear up an obvious crack to the second set of anchors out onto the wall. There are several fixed anchors. Get a comfortable stance. The two pitch route is rated 5.9, but the first pitch is closer to 5.7, the second pitch is mostly bolted and the crux lead of the two by far.

The second pitch is well bolted as you venture out over the varnished face to the right. Traverse right and up for an absolutely full pitch of a 70 meter rope. Mount Spry and East Temple are in excellent view as you ascend. The traffic below (possibly stopped waiting on a RV going through the tunnel) can be a distraction. You acquire quite the captivated audience doing this route. As you start following the bolts straight up, it becomes more of a smearing campaign. Therefore, this two pitch route is quite diverse.

Once at the station on the summit of the tower and done with your belays, simply maneuver south a bit and you will find a bomber rappel station that sets off above and to the south of the first pitch.

Essential Gear

70m rope. Single set of cams to 2"

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