Aviary Ort Overhangs, 5.9+, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

The local guidebook references Aviary Ort Overhangs as “one of the best of its grade in the Sandias.”  More relevant yet, it is one of the purest crack climbs (multi pitch) available in the Sandias.  As is typical with routes officially carrying a “5.9+” grade, Aviary is as challenging if not more so than any 5.10- climb I have led in the  Sandia Mountains.  It is one of just three technical routes on the “Thumb” which is known more for its common 5.6 route up its western ridge which I soloed several weeks earlier.

All three pitches appeared to be slightly shorter than the guide topo’s lengths.  The entire route is just over 400’.  That being said, where the first pitch ends (fixed rap) and the second pitch starts, was not well thought out causing the second pitch, as laid out in the guide, to offer up rope drag no matter how well you extend your placements.  Therefore, I advise taking the first pitch up the entire corner before traversing out right. You will end up with a semi hanging belay either way.   The first pitch slot, crux of the pitch, was not overly challenging for the grade.  There is mention of larger gear needed on MP.com, but a single #4 protects the middle of the slot well.  If you continue on as I suggest, you can stay in the corner until you hit the large roof above.  If you choose to stop at the first fixed rap, I suggest running out the start of the 2nd pitch straight up the face on good edges to rejoin the corner higher up to avoid some of the rope drag issues.  I did this and still had massive rope drag once I completed the traverse under the roof.  The rightward traverse below the roof protects with a micro-offset, cam or nut.  In 2021, there was also a fixed nut at the start of the traverse.  With these two placements, I avoided utilizing the lone piton on the route (2021) at my feet.  The crux of the route is the exposed move without pro at the right end of the traverse to pull up into the next corner system.  There is a small moveable chockstone that you can clove hitch, but is suspect.  Once through this crux, you can protect with small gear and continue up the corner pulling the chossy roof above or move slightly out right and back left, managing rope drag potential.  From there, follow steep blocky terrain up to another fixed rap at a stance.  The third pitch follows the obvious chossy corner up and left, then up massive blocks to a short chimney on your right formed by one of the blocks.  Climb the outside edge and trend up and right to the ridgeline. Sling a boulder for the belay.   The summit is a short scramble away.

Hike down the La Luz trail from the summit crest parking area.  On the way down you will get a good view of the Thumb to the southwest.  Several miles down the trail, look for the obvious corner and rock scar in the middle of the northeast face of the Thumb.  At an obvious switchback, leave the La Luz for a faint climber’s trail that meanders west up to the base of the corner.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 135’-5.9/ Start up the massive right facing corner and enjoy well protected and fun climbing at the grade to a wide slot.  Where the first pitch ends (fixed rap) and the second pitch starts, was not well thought out causing the second pitch, as laid out in the guide, to offer up rope drag no matter how well you extend your placements.  Therefore, I advise taking the first pitch up the entire corner before traversing out. You will end up with a semi hanging belay either way.   The first pitch wide slot, crux of the pitch, was not overly challenging for the grade.  There is mention of larger gear needed on MP.com, but a single #4 protected deep in the slot.   Little to any off-width climbing is needed.  Maybe one chicken wing for a second or two.  A #2 protects the start of this wide section with a #4 protecting deep in.  At the top, you move out right on good ledges to a fixed rap.  If you continue up the corner on pitch one as I have suggested, you can stay in the corner until you hit the large roof above.  If you chose to stop at the first fixed rap, I suggest starting pitch two by running it out straight up the face on good edges to rejoin the corner higher up to avoid some of the rope drag issues.  I did this and still had massive rope drag once I completed the traverse above.  There were several fixed passive pieces along the way in 2021.

2^nd Pitch- 135’-5.9+/ As with the first pitch, the length of pitch two is a bit shorter than the local guide topo (2021).  The rightward traverse below the roof protects with a micro-offset, cam or nut.  In 2021, there was also a fixed nut at the start of the traverse.  With these two placements, I avoided utilizing the lone piton located on the route (2021) at your feet in the middle of the traverse.  The crux of the route is the exposed move, without pro, at the right end of the traverse to pull up into the next corner system.  There is a small moveable chockstone that you can clove hitch, but it is suspect.  Once through this crux, you can protect with small gear and continue up the corner pulling the chossy roof above or move slightly out right and back left, managing rope drag potential.  From there, follow steep blocky terrain up to another fixed rap. 

3^rd Pitch- 135’-5.8/ The third pitch follows the obvious chossy corner/ramp up and left, then up massive lichen covered blocks to a short chimney on your right formed by one of the blocks.  Climb the outside edge of this block avoiding the chimney, and trend up and right to the ridgeline. Sling a boulder on top for a belay.   The summit is a short scramble away.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Walk the ridge line east to a short scramble section up to the main summit.  Continue along the ridge east.  You step down a few times to the south and eventually traverse a sloping ledge on the south side that leads back to the ridge proper.  Continue down to the saddle and turn back west down a short slot to the ground.  Stay on skiers left of the immediate scree field following a decent climbers trail back to the La Luz trail.  Hike back up several miles to the summit crest.

Essential Gear

Single rack from micro to #4.  Double to #2.  Take at least 15 60cm slings to avoid rope drag.  Route receives early morning sun, but then good shade for most of the day.  Biner approach shoes for the descent, you will not be returning to the base.  Walking off is easier and simpler than rapping and the third pitch is worth climbing if one really wants to say they climbed the route.