Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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49.80875°N / 86.58909°E |
Route Type:
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Ice climbing |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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AD+ |
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Approach
First you have fly to Moscow, then take some local flight to Barnaul (5 hours from Moscow).
From Barnaul, by car 1100 km (500 km bad road without coverage) to the settlement Tungur, located on the bank of majestic Katun river.
In Tungur the horseback part of the route begins. Horses and horse guides are easily found in Tungur - this is the only way locals earn money (which they drink away at the same moment).
Normally, there two or maximum three days of riding to Akkem lake - the point from where the trek to the Mountain begins (1 day to the Tomsk bivouac).
Route Description
The base of route begins in half an hour walk from the Tomsk bivouac. The route is almost direct line to the summit and it is very easy for orientating. The first half of the route is very dangerous because of two gigantic seracs hanging above. This part is to be climbed as fast as possible and surely before the sunrise. The middle part is the crux (100 m of 60 degrees ice and 5-6 m of 70-80 degrees). After the crux the route begins more flat and represents no significant difficulties. There are two ways of equal difficulty to climb the summit after the crux - the first one is from the Saddle (you turn right), the second - by the East ridge (you turn left).
If you are quick enough and weather permits, you can climb the route in one day.
Attention! If you don't know the Normal Route, DO NOT climb the Bottle, because you certainly will be lost on your descend, especially if the weather is not stable.
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Essential Gear
Crampones and technical ice-axes, ice screws, 60-70 m rope. Couple of slings and some pitons
Miscellaneous Info
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