Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
58.38139°N / 134.52417°W |
GPX File:
|
Download GPX » View Route on Map |
|
Route Type:
|
Mountaineering, Ice Climbing |
Season:
|
Winter |
|
Time Required:
|
Half a day |
|
Difficulty:
|
sometimes wi3, sometimes 85 degree snice. |
|
Grade:
|
III |
|
Overview
This is the most obvious line on the west face. Such an obvious line that many never even notice. There are two vertical bottlenecks (85 degree snow/ice) about 15 feet in length that many will want to rope up for. Following this, there is a full pitch of variable conditions on steep terrain. In 2011 this pitch, as well as the bottlenecks were WI3, in 2012 everything was funky snice. There is another steep snow section about 400 ft below the summit that some may wish to rope up for. The rest of the climb consists of blissful sustained steep snow, with decent exposure, and great views.Getting There
Park at the end of Valley blvd and follow the trail over the bridge to the t-intersection. Bushwhack directly towards the face, following the small stream if not snow-covered. Make sure you start in the true central couloir, if you stay too far right you will stray into another route fairly easily.Essential Gear
ice tools preferable over ice axe. 60m rope if you want it for the technical pitches. 3-4 pickets, cordelette, and some screws (you'll probably want to scope the route with binoculars before you determine what gear to bring) and a spliff for the top.conditions.
some things to watch out for:strong southeast and northeast winds can cause a good deal of windloading, causing spindrift and slab avalanches.
recent snow fall makes the route an instant no-no.
Be aware that there will most likely be mountain goats up there with you. While they arent dangerous, the huge ice/snow balls they dislodge while running away from you definitely can be.