Cima di Iazzi

Overview

North of Monte Rosa the border ridge goes on with some important elevations (almost insignificant if viewed from the Swiss side but important from italian valle Anzasca).
The most important (and huge) mountain of this chain is the Cima di Iazzi.



This summit is well frequented by skilled hikers spending summer holidays in Valle Anzasca (Macugnaga) because this is :
- the easiest high mountain on the whole chain
- a fantastic "belvedere" on the 4000 summits of Wallis
- the ending point of a very nice high mountain hike : the Traversata dei camosci

Getting There

Valle Anzasca - Macugnaga
along the highway of Sempione (Simplon pass) get out at Piedimulera and, along the road reach Macugnaga - then Pecetto (1327m)
Starting from here you can use 3 different starting points for the ascent :
Bivacco Belloni 2509m - useful for the long and difficult rock climbs on the south wall
Rifugio Eugenio Sella 3029 m - useful for the normal route (ENE side)
Passo del Monte Moro 2868 m - near the arrival of the cablecar - for the "Traversata dei camosci"

Zermatt tal - Monterosa Hutte
Using the Gornergrat Mountain Railway get the Rotenboden station.
Along a well posted trail parallel to the Gorner glacier in less than 2 hours you reach the end of the Gorner ridge where, crossing the glacier you reach the hut

Routes overview

on the South face, high and impressive, some long rock routes of middle difficulties and a very difficult one (Bisaccia)

the long (1800 m drop) SE ridge hosts a (they say) fine route with discontinuous difficulties up to 4° UIAA

the ENE side is not difficult but requires alpinistic skill

the NE ridge, from Neues Weisstor (the saddle between Cima di Iazzi and the Cime del Neues Weisstor) the easiest route, the normal, a nice ascent on snow (iceaxe and crampons useful)

the west side is an easy and not steep slope that can be used for ski-mountaneering ... but there are some better summits here :)

When To Climb

depending of the snow conditions, normally good starting from mid June till the end of September

Can be a good training for winter climbs on the East wall of Monte Rosa

Camping

no needs but a small tent can be placed almost everywhere along the path to refuges

Images

View Cima di Iazzi Image Gallery - 30 Images