Cleavage Dreamer

Overview

This route ascends just left of center of the massive Southeast face of the Cleaver. Lots of cracks and laybacking lead to a crux dihedral that will probably go free around 5.10+, then two more pitches along the huge ramp and up the face lead to the summit ridge. The route is mostly solid, although the last pitch is a bit grainy.

FA Kostas Stamatiou and Nate Ricklin 6/28/2008

FFA Scotty Nelson and Lin Pearson 7/19/2008 at 5.10

Getting There

See info for the Cleaver.

Route Description

1) Start near the center of the face just to the right of a couple of left-facing corners. Climb bulging cracks/face to a small ledge just left of a slightly-overhanging left-facing flaky corner. (5.8)

2) Climb the loose flaky corner and follow two consecutive hand cracks, passing a bolt between them, to a large horn belay just above a hole. (5.8)

3) Traverse left around an arete, downclimb a short handcrack, then climb up and left on flakes and liebacks to a right-sloping ledge just below “The Greek Finger”– a large detached pillar jutting skyward. (5.9)

4) Climb/bearhug the finger (awesome!) to a right-arching handcrack, then step right and climb up into the dihedral. Climb funky unprotected moves in a shallow groove for the first 15 feet or so (crux), until a crack and face holds appear. Hanging belay below an offwidth bulge (or keep going if you still have gear left). (5.10 A1 or possibly 5.10+)

5) Jam/layback the bulge (easier than it looks) and climb up to the giant broken ramp. Follow the ramp up and right then climb straight up and slightly left on flakes/face. (5.8)

6) Work your way up through the overhangs to the summit ridge. Tricky climbing on less-than-stellar rock, with lots of slung horns for pro. (5.10 - unless you find an easier way)

Essential Gear

Nuts, double set of TCU’s, double set of Camalots to #2 and a single #3.

10-12 slings

60m rope.

External Links

Trip report

Images

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