Conquest of Paradise

Overview

This sport climbing route on the Hanibal tower (2882m.) next to Sidelen glacier and between Groß Furkahorn and Galenstock is in excellent granite and is well protected with good bolts. My compliments to the route developer, since it provides a wonderful climb. A special treat awaits the the climber in the form of a bench on the summit which provides a rest from the exerctions.

The route was first climbed by Beni Wenger and Jürg von Känel in 1995. Känel is the author of the excellent Plaisir guidebook series and put up many fine routes. He unfortunately died in January 2005.

The Sidelen hut is perfectly situated as a base and for overnight accommodations, from which other wonderful tours and climbs can be made in this area.

Getting There

From the parking area near the Furka refuge shortly before the Furka pass a trail leads to the Sidelen hut. Follow this for 40 minutes, then turn left over the glacier until under the Hanibal tower. The traverse of the glacier offers no difficulties. The beginning of the route is marked (see profile picture).

Route Description

Of the 6 pitches, none is easier than 5. The difficulties are between UIAA 5 and 6-. The second to the last pitch is 6+, if climbed free.

Descend via rappels along the route itself.

Essential Gear

We needed a double rope 2x45m and 8 express slings. All protection is fixed (very good bolts).

Book

Schweiz Plaisir West by Jürg von Känel, ISBN 3-906087-19-0 Order direct form the publisher, Filidor

Images

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