Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.97620°N / 6.86729°E |
Route Type:
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Well bolted rock climb |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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French 5c+ |
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Approach
From the Index Station telecabine you walk off the lift almost directly ahead for about 15 minutes. The climb starts at the base of the contreforts de gauche of La Grande Floria on the left side of the two large, diagonal cracks.
Route Description
First pitch is a 5c+ with a small bit of overhang for the first two moves. Second pitch is 5b (I believe) to the top of the first portion of rock. You then walk across a small 7-8 meter bit to get to the start of the third pitch which can be done to the right at 5b or to the left and an overhang at 5c. Recommend the right route as it is way more friendly to the ropes. The next pitch seemed to be 5b not too bad but everything seemed to be outward sloping and when you get above the crux of this pitch, it is a little unclear which of the many bolts you are to follow. Asia stays to the left, but we climbed the right side and it was again a 5b that takes you a little below the top of the lower portion of the mountain. Here we unroped and scrambled to the top.
If you have the time (when was the last telecabine down?...16:30 when I last climbed here but CHECK at the Index Station before you start the climb!) and interest to climb to the summit you need to keep going up; a scramble that takes you up to the top of the lower section of the mountain from which you can see the trail that will take you to the beginning of the top three pitches, 5c, 5b, 5b after which there is 7 minutes of steady upward scrambling over scree and loose rock to the summit, plus ten minutes for descent back to the last anchor...exercise great care here for yourself and for not knocking too much down on parties that are lower on the route.(Note: These top pitches have a lot of loose rock and if there is a party climbing above or rappeling off there will be rock fall so be extremely careful) The total time from unroping at the end of the lower portion and standing at the beginnning of the top three pitches will vary because it feels like you are climbing on another mountain the top pitches are so far apart from the lower pitches. If you have never been to the top of the lower section and don't know exactly where you are going figure on at least 30 minutes between the unroping at the end of the lower section and standing in front of the first pitch of the top section. If you know where you are going, it will still take 15 minutes of steady scrambling. We started the top three pitches at 14:20 and made it back to the Index Station at 16:29...one hour for descent from the summit to the Station is minimum and that is again if you know exactly where you are going. The fastest route down from the summit is two rappels to the start of the top three pitches and then, if you are facing the Index Station, there is a cairned route down off to the right from the section between the lower part of the route and the top section. Down-climb this steep path to the top snow patch, glissade as far as the snow will allow, hit the scree slope, glissade, back on the snow, glissade and run like a snow leopard so you don't have to experience the three hour walk to the parking lot because you missed the last telecabine...many people do!
If not climbing the top section, descend by rappel on brand new rappel rings not mentioned in the guide book that were right below the last belay for the true Asia route on the lower portion. This took us right back to the start of the climb so no need to carry approach shoes.
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Essential Gear
two 50 meter ropes
rappel device
14 carabiners
a few slings
helmet
Miscellaneous Info
Very nice climb but would recommend leaving the last three pitches of the top section out...lots of loose rock coming down.
Published guided cost for the route is 205 euro.