Cotocachi Climb

Overview

Supposedly the most dangerous hike in Ecuador due to falling rock, difficult weather and lack of trail, Cotacachi can be a complicated climb which requires trad gear, rope, and harnesses. The most technical part consists of a 5.7 trad pitch of 20 meters. The word is that while it is well protected, it’s unbolted so cams are a must. Technically this mountain is not to be climbed without a guide, however, you can sign a release form allowing you to go without a guide. That said, in my experience here in Ecuador the disorganization of the country can be extreme and contradicting.  One day you might pull up and get told it’s absolutely illegal to hike without a guide and the next day the ranger station will be unmanned. To navigate your way around the first situation, have some type of papers showing you have mountain credentials even if all it is is a list of mountains you’ve summited with your picture and signature. Ecuadorians love paperwork! And they basically just want to make sure you’re not gonna be the next headline of a gringo dying on a mountain. Advise the park rangers that you know the risks and are willing to sign release forms.

Without a car the climb is even more complicated. The cheapest way to get there would be to take a bus from the northern Quito terminal of Carcelen to Otavalo. From Otavalo catch a bus to the town of Cotocachi. Stay there for the night and find a taxi truck to take you to the “anteneas de Cotocachi” the next morning. From what I hear the road can be extremely rough getting there.

You might consider walking instead of drive to these antennas from the park entrance. It could be a good idea to camp and then summit the next day. However the guards at the entrance of the park told me camping is not allowed. I’ve had friends that snuck in there anyway though at it wasn’t a problem. 

Although, we did not end up attempting a summit because of weather, the guards at the station gave me the number of a local guide, Alfonso, who can be reached at +593 939386579. If you have a guide the issue of not having your “papers” to do the trek might be negated.

Okay, that’s what I know. Look good, have fun, be safe. Good Luck! (And if you actually attempt this please hit me up and let me know how it went)

–Mquigs

External Links

Hike Ecuador