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4552 Hits
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82.48% Score
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15 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.26000°N / 11.84515°E |
County:
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Trentino |
Activities:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Summer |
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Elevation:
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8839 ft / 2694 m |
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Overview
At the Southern border of Dolomites, at the end of July and in August, the weather is often a little "strange" : even if the atmospheric pressure is high some tricky clouds (normally named as "daytime evolution") give climbers.normally in the afternoon, the opportunity to test their skills about climbing on very wet rocks ...The Croda di Roda looks like made for those rock climbers that don't want that test.
This summit is all in one with its famous, classic and often climbed route : the Castiglioni-Battisti on the SW edge even if on the S and W walls some other routes have been opened.
A short and fast approach, a fine but not long (250-300m) wall, a short and fast descent ... 3-4 hours from car to car (car parking of the cableway to Rosetta plain) and you have won an amusing classic rock climb without stress and struggle ... what else ?
Getting There
From San Martino di Castrozza follow the road of Passo Rolle (SS 50) till you meet the wide car parking of Col Verde & Cima Rosetta cablecars.Once arrived at the Rosetta station in 10 minutes walk you arrive to the Rifugio Rosetta (coffee break) where you can leave backpack and all useless gear (all but 4 carabiniers and a small choice of bindings/strings : the route is full of "hourglasses")
SW edge
8-9 pitches, classic difficulties : 4°/4°+ (5.5), the route follows a long series of cracks and chimneys all in fine rock and where exposure is not felt.Routefinding is really easy, you can climb almost everywhere, seconding your preferences, following the cracks and chimneys or their borders - no need to "study" the passages, like many other routes in the Pale group, you just have to stretch out your arms to find abundant and safe grips ..
From Rifugio Rosetta, along the path 702, follow toward Val di Roda, few after the starting of the descent you can see, on the left, a track pointing to a wide ledge of debris.
Follow this track just till you arrive under a fine rock wall, little before the end of the ledge.
 | Once climbed the starting wall you arrive, passing a steeper band of small chimneys, under a jellow wall. Toward right up to a small notch at the summit of the lower spur. Now, keeping the right part of the edge (S), along a small channel or the edge in the right side, then a ridge to get a debris ledge. Here is the starting point of the less easy part (from here to the summit the difficulties are of 4° (5.5) |
 | Now the route follows the series of cracks for 2 pitches to arrive to a little overhanging narrow chimney that becomes a crack wherefrom you must exit to the right (key passage - 5.7). Now 3 pitches following a sequence of small cracks and slabs (some vertical and a little exposed) give access to the ending part made of easy rocks and debris. |
In 15-20 minutes walk (hands in pocket) back to Rosetta refuge.
Accomodations
see main page of pale di San Martinono need to spend the night in the refuge