Dent de la Rancune + Crêt de Coq

Overview

In the Auvergne region (France) there are ancient volcanos you can easily ascend by foot or by bike.
There are also excellent pieces of rock to climb here and there.

Dent de la Rancune and Crêt de Coq are part of them.
They are close to each other and located in the beautiful Chaudefour Valley.

Getting There

From Clermont-Ferrand, drive SW to Le Mont-Dore on road N89 first then road D983.
Next, go to Chambon-sur-Lac on road D996.
From there, take road D637 up to Buron de Chaudefour. Park there.

To end, there is a 45 min walk to reach both peaks.

Red Tape

This is a protected area, you cannot camp, nor light a fire.
Take all trash away with you.

Camping

There is a nice camp site called "Camping de Voissières", located between Chambon-sur-Lac and Buron de Chaudefour.
Phone : +33 4 73 88 64 13.
Very welcoming owners, cheaper than those in Chambon-sur-Lac, and closer to the climbing sites.

Climbing on Dent de la Rancune

You can climb on all four faces of Dent de la Rancune.
The type of rock is Dyke (volcanic origin). It is 90m high and offers 1 to 4 pitches.
You will find hereafter routes that have at least 2 pitches.

- West Face :

Voie normale WF : 5c > 6a > 5c
Pierrot Lunaire : 6c > 6a+

- South Face :

Voie normale SF : 5a > 5c > 6a > 5c
Bisou Flo : 6a > 6b+ > 6c
Objectif lune : 6a+ > 7a+
Le deuxième souffle : 6b > 6c > 6c
La classique : 6a > 6b > 5c
Prelude : 7a > 6a+ > 6b
La demi-lune : 7a > 6b > 6b
Suicide mode d'emploi : 7a > 6b > 6a
Enchaînement pervers : 6b > 6b > 6b+
Police de la pensée : 6a > 4c > A1 > 6c+
India song : 6a > 7a > 5c
Aux larmes etc : 6a+ > 6b > 6c
Bobo : 6b > 5c > 5C
La chevauchée fantastique : 5c > 6b

- East Face :

Voie Gérard Russier : 6a > 7b > 7b

- North Face :

Mon dernier mur sera pour toi : A2 > A2
Reve de singe : 6c > 7a > 6a > 6a
Manpower : 7c > 8a+
Voie normale NF : 5c > A1 > 5c
Voie Fred : 7c+ > 6c > 7b

Climbing on Crêt de Coq

Climbing there is not as nice as Dent de la Rancune, but it is a good site to warm up a little.
The route on the south ridge is 3c but very interessing to ascent for beginners. And the view on Dent de la Rancune is marvellous.

Crêt de Coq is 130m high with routes from 1 to 4 pitches.
You can only climb on the South face, as the north face offer poor quality rock.
Again only 2-pitch routes are indicated below.

- South Face :

Supertrempe : 5c > 6a > 5c > 5a
Sonia d'automne : 6b > 4c > 6a > 5b
Les coqs laids : 5c > 4a
Le grand éperon : 3a > 4b > 4a > 5a
Belle comme un litre : 4a > 5c
Cardiaque blues : 6a > 5c
Jamais vue : 4a > 4c > 4c > 4a
Bisou dans le cou : 5a
Le rapport dont vous êtes l'objet : 5c > 5c
Tant qu'il y aura des coqs : 4c > 5a > 4a
Objectif nul : 5c > 5c
Salut l'art triste : 4c > 5c > 3c

- East Ridge :

Voie normale : 2c > 3c > 2b

Essential Gear

- Two 50m ropes
- Harness + helmet
- 15 quickdraws
- A few slings and friends may be useful
- Abseiling equipment, as you cannot walk down

And of course the excellent handbook that gives full details on routes, levels, and other climbing sites in the area.

Images

View Dent de la Rancune + Crêt de Coq Image Gallery - 11 Images