Devil's Hand

The Numbers

Route: Sport
Grade: 5.10d / 6b
Distance: 25 meters / 81 feet

Approach

Dairy Farm Quarry is located at the very Northern part of the Bukit Timah nature preserve. You can take the same public transportation but continue until you reach the the Dairy Farms Estate area. There is a bus stop about 100 meters before the intersection and the drivers were always willing to let us know where to depart the bus. Use the pedestrian overpass and head to the intersection of Upper Bukit Timah Expressway and Dairy Farm Road. Turn right and head up the road about 200 meters. There are two small asphalt roads, take the one that runs perpendicular to the Dairy Farm Road. The asphalt road eventually turns into a dirt road and narrows a bit. The quarry is between a 1,000 and 1500 meters off the main road. You are surrounded by thick forest and vegatation along the path and it is not wise to venture off the path (big snakes) as one of our climbers found out. As you enter the quarry it is split into two separate formations. The formation on the left hand side has is line with thick vegatation and trees. There is the large break in the trees and the section of rock protruding through is the Direct section. Follow the path between the tree/vegations and the rock to the right about thirty meters and keep an eye out for the nice shiny new bolts and anchor. There are two sport routes very close together the route the highest anchor is Third Kid and the second route is Devil's hand.

Route Description

The route Devil's Hand is located about five meters to the left of Third Kid. Devil's Hand is a sport route that has 8 Bolts and covers 25 meters or 81 feet. This route is rated as a 5.10d or 6b route, depending on the grading system you prefer. There is a fixed anchor. There was a bit of vegatation occupying the space in a few of the cracks, that I felt were be a better place for my fingers. This rock does becomes extremely slippery with even a slight bit of rain.

Essential Gear

1. 50 or 60 Meter Rope.
2. Eight four inch quick draws are sufficent.
3. Couple of locking biners for anchor.
4. Helmet ( in case they rocks try to sprout wings and don't succeed)

Miscellaneous Info

There are no restroom facilities or running water of any type in or near this quarry. There is a trash recepticle by the bus stop. Please take all your trash with you when you leave. Climb On!