Diedre de l'Eglantine, Baou des Vespres

Overview

Diedre de l'Eglantine, Baou des Vespres

Baou des Vespres is one of the several limestone structures belonging to the wide massif named Montagne Sainte Victoire, South of France, Aix-en-Provence, a symbol of Provence. Montagne Sainte-Victoire appears as a huge rocky bastion 18 kilometer long with a 7 kilometer long summit plateau. This charmer massif, rising from the Mediterranean plains with its immaculate rocks, exerts an extraordinary appeal even if observed from a distance. A perfect area for walking, but even more to climb. The rock climbing destination at Sainte Victoire is the South face, which counts around 1000 routes, 29 or more sectors and 7 separate parking lots, an astounding space to climb up a surprisingly sticky limestone. There are a lot of single pitch routes, but also high walls with plenty of long and adventurous climbing routes. Baou des Vespres is one of these latter. With its stunning East wall, the Baou des Vespres constitutes one of the major walls of the Sainte Victoire massif and it's located more or less in the central part of the long rocky bastion that forms the S face of the Montagne Sainte Victoire. Although relatively short (140 meters), its routes are stiff and still nowadays remain parsimoniously equipped.

Getting There

By plane - Sainte Victoire massif is situated 35 km from Marseille and 180 km from Nice, so the best option is to fly to Marseille or Nice and rent a car.

By car - The nearest town is Aix-en-Provence. The A8 autoroute runs south of Sainte Victoire and Aix-en-Provence. If coming from the Nice direction, exit the A8 onto the RN 7 in the direction of Aix. From Aix, take the "Route de Cézanne", road D17, which traverses under the south side of the massif from Les Tholonet to Puyloubier. There are several parking lots along this road, the right one to climb on Baou des Vespres is located on the left (direction Puyloubiere), about 500 metres after the Domaine de Subéroque.

Route Description

Diedre de l'Eglantine - French scale

Summit altitude: 1009 m
Difficulty: Alpine TD, max 6a+ (French scale)
Route length: 160 m
Exposure: East
First ascent: Jean-Paul Folliet and Michel Soulier, 1965
Starting point: road to Puyloubiere, Parking du Saut du Loup Beautiful sustained climb on dihedrals and cracks.

A great classic in the 5c/6a level, the Diédre de l'Eglantine is one of the frequently attended route of the Baou Des Vespres together with the Jardin sospendu. Although the wall is not very high, it is one of the most impressive of the Sainte Victoire. The route is partially equipped with pegs. Take a game of excentrics and friends until size 3.

Approach

The approach to Baou des Vespres, located in the vicinity of Refuge Baudino, coincides in the first part with the access to the shelter itself.
From the parking lot take a good and broad path marked in red to the Refuge Baudino, starting on the left of the parking lot. It crosses a forest road, then it continues over the road (signpost Ref. Baudino) heading at first to the right and then going back to the left (red signs) up a small valley towards the hill located behind a characteristic rocky promontory.

Continue to reach the small shelter, hidden amongst the rock and the wood. Behind the shelter, take to the right the path marked with brown lines. It leads through a chaos of blocks at the foot of the face. Leave this path to reach the start of the route, to the left of "Le Jardin sospendu" and "Le cheminée arc en ciel", below a pillar delimited by two steep dihedrals. The right dihedral is "Le cheminée arc en ciel", the left one is "L'Eglantine".

The start is on a sloping dihedral, which above separates into two distinct ones (the right branch corresponds to "Le cheminée arc en ciel") to the right of a tree. Once the start has been identified, the route is easy to find, it follows a succession of dihedrals.

L1 - Climb the sloping dihedral, at first traverse 1 meter right and take a crack. Pass a tree and belay below a spur, 5c, 40 m
L2 - Take the dihedral which goes left, then up another beautiful steep dihedral. Belay on a small niche, 6a, 35 m
L3 - Climb the right dihedral crack (6a, then 5c) and join some small ledges. Belay on a tree, 6a, 35 m
L4 - Climb at first to the right, then left and join the ridge by a wide crack, 5a, 40 m

Descent - Follow the ridge to the right to reach the exit of the Grand Couloir (about 500 m). Descend the path of the Grand Couloir (scree, then chains and cable) to join a large scree that allows to return to the refuge Baudino and successively to the road.

Essential Gear

Rope 2x50, helmet, harness, a set of excentrics and a set of cams until size 3, slings, hammer

Red Tape 

No fees, no permits required. There is a strict prohibition to hiking and climbing during the summer, because of the fire hazard due to the high heat and sunshine, usually between June 15th and September 15th. Check in every year the exact period before embarking on a vacation, since it may undergo changes. Wild camping is prohibited.

When to climb

In addition to being prohibited, climbing in summer is not advisable in reason of the excessive heat. You can climb also during the winter, but sometimes the weather can be cold and windy. In particular the wall of the Baou des Vespres is exposed to the east, although quite sheltered from the "Mistral", but soon enters in the shade and is not recommended for winter. Definitely the best periods on Baou des Vespres are spring and autumn months.

Accomodation

There are different places to stay close to Montagne Sainte Victoire. We can find equipped campsites in Puyloubier, Beaurecueuil,Rousset and Peynier:

- Camping Sainte-Victoire (Beaurecueil)
- Camping Le Devançon (Peynier)
- Camping Le Cézanne (Puyloubier)
- Camping du Coteau de la Marine (Rousset) Alternatively Gites are available in St. Antonin and Puyloubier and Hotels in Puyloubier, Rousset, Peynier, Fuveau.

Meteo

Meteoblue Montagne Saint Victoire

Guidebooks and maps

"Escalade en Pays d'Aix", Philippe Légier, Daniel Gorgeon 2015

Map: IGN - 3244ET - Montagne Ste-Victoire - Aix-en-Provence - Gardanne – Trets