Dirtbaggers Compensation, 5.10a, 6 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Not worth the trip on its own accord, but Dirtbaggers' close proximity to the Maw and Play on Credit (Dirtbaggers located between these two stellar routes) makes it a worthwhile objective if working the area.  The route is broken up by a large tree and bush infested ledge.  You have to unrope to gain the start of the 3rd pitch which is relatively directly above where you ended the 2^nd.  The 3^rd pitch is uneventful to a sloping ledge.  Move the belay yet again to the right end of the heavily varnished black wall above and climb the best pitch of the route, pitch #4, through a mix of bolts and gear to a two bolted anchor.  During the 5^th pitch the rock starts to deteriorate and the angle starts to ease off with tons of features, therefore it is best to rap the route at the top of the 5^th pitch or continue on to the walk-off options.  Either use an 80m single or double ropes to rap. This is not (as of 2020) a conventionally fixed route and there are several single bolt rap situations with wire backups that might or might not be in place.

Hike First Creek as you would for Romper Room, etc.  When even with Slot Club Wall located way up on the northern slope of the canyon, cross the creek and start the slog of an ascent up to the base of Slot Club.  Once to the base of Slot Club, scramble up the short tree infested gully to the left and traverse the slopes west below the Maw.  Stay even with where you toped out of the treed gully vs scrambling up to the base of the Maw.  The trail is somewhat marked with cairns (2020).  In short order, descend a gully for approximately 60’ and reascend to the west and look for the nicely varnished right facing corner with a single pro bolt.  Scramble up to a sloping ledge to suit up or start in the bushes below.

 Route Description

1^st/2^nd Pitches- 200’-5.10a/ The FAer’s call the first pitch 5.9 and the second pitch 5.10a. I combined the two pitches and never felt any real 5.10a moves.  Climb up through a pro bolt on the good-looking varnished right facing corner.  Continue up through the chimney and stem up the steep flakes and out of the chimney to the base of a short hand crack corner.  Finish this and scramble up to belay on a large tree.

Hike and scramble up and right and then up direct to an obvious crack in the red face above. 

3^rd Pitch- 100’-5.9/ Climb the red crack at a jointed corner to a bolted fixed rap. 

Walk the ledge to the rightward belay bolt. 

4^th Pitch- 130’-5.9/ Best pitch and rock of the route. Climb through three pro bolts on the black varnish and continue, trending up left, to a bolted belay at a stance.  There is a single rap bolt slightly below. 

5^th Pitch- 145’-5.8/ This pitch is a little run out in spots.   Continue up the obvious seam until it is not too obvious anymore and the rock starts to deteriorate.  Trend left and up to a single bolt belay that can be mixed with solid wire placements.

If your intent is to rap the route, this is where you end the climbing to avoid the precarious rope pull on the low angled and heavily featured final pitch above.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

A 80m single can rap the route, otherwise you need doubles.  An 80m just makes it from the top of pitch 5 to the top of pitch 4.  It easily makes it down from the top of pitch 4 to the ledge at the top of pitch 3.  Walk back climbers left and make a single rope rap from the top of pitch 3 to the large brushy gully ledge below.  Hike back to the top of pitch 2 and scramble down and skiers left to locate a double bolt rap atop the yellow rock feature east of the main corner.  Double rope rap here or with an 80m, make a short rap back to a single bolt rap near the top of pitch two.  An 80m just makes it down the route from here.

Essential Gear

Single to #3.  Set of wires will come in handy on the upper pitches.  Extendable slings.  Route goes into the shade after noon in November.