Overview
Very scenic ridge route to the summit of Dračí štít linking all three summits of Ošarpance, Dračia kopka, Dračie zuby and Dračí štít.
The ridge of Ošarpance consists of three sharp towers - Malý Ošarpanec, Prostredný Ošarpanec and Veľký Ošarpanec (2364 m). First climbed by Guyla and Roman Komarnicki in 1909.
Getting There
The best starting point is Popradské pleso, from where you follow the unmarked trail to Zlomisková dolina and Kotlina pod Dračím sedlom. From here go straight in the direction of the south-eastern face of Malý Ošarpanec, with beautiful slabs, where you can find routes of difficulty VI-VII UIAA. Our starting point is located on the verge of western face of Malý Ošarpanec and it's called Komarnicki's chimney (III UIAA).
Route Description
First climb Komarnicki's chimney (fixed protection) to a broad ledge , which is also the end point for sport routes in S-E face. Through series of cracks in slabs continue directly to the summit of Malý Ošarpanec. The route is quite clear and you just stick to the S-E ridge and you can't miss it. (2 1/2 hours). Rappel down from the summit to Nižná Ošarpaná štrbina and from here follow the ridge and series of cracks and chimneys to the summit of Prostredný Ošarpanec. Another rapelling down to Vyšná Ošarpaná štrbina and then climb directly to the summit of Vyšný Ošarpanec. There is a rappel ring at the summit, so you can easily rappel down through an overhang to Dračia štrbina. From this saddle follow the ridge of Dračia kopka in the direction of Ihla v Dračom tower. Further section is a little bit dangerous due to loose rocks - you have to climb over rotten slabs with scarce opportunities for placing stable protection and then follow the ridge consisting of loose rocks to the summit of Dračie zuby. From there it's already easy climbing, following the ridge to the main summit of Dračí štít. Once in Vyšný Dračí zárez saddle you can rappel down to Lavica Vysokej, or you can continue further via Malý Dračí štít to the summit of Vysoká. It was too late for such an option, so we decided to rappel down and continue in total darkness through Lavica Vysokej and Juhovýchodný zárez (SW gully) down to Dračie sedlo and back to Kotlina pod Dračím sedlom, where we had a bivouac.
Essential Gear
Essential climbing gear, friends, nuts, 30 m rope. Basically you can climb the whole route free, but due to loosen rocks, it's recommended to place some protection on the most dangerous places. Rope is essential for rapelling from summits. Komarnicki's chimney has fixed protection.
External Links
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