East Face

Overview

A particularly consistent route with every pitch being 5.8 to 5.10 on excellent rock. The only serious drawback is the unprotected 5.9 mantel on the first pitch. A fall here would result in a 30' crater. The route was first attempted by Fred Becky in the mid 60's. His article in Summit inspired Tom Dunwidde and myself to attempt it. We did the 8 mile approach, set our grear out for the next morning and awoke only to discover a raccoon had chewed every coil on our only rope. This resulted in a retreat to the Tetons and the purchase of a new rope. 

A few years later, and many routes wiser, I returned with George Macheel. This time we protected the gear and got an early start. A short snowfield lead to the base of a steep right sloping gully which leads to the start of the route. Ascend the gully for a pitch to the base of a steep wall on the left, traverse left on 5.5 holds 20' to the mantel once standing you are able to place your first protection. A fall on the mantel would be a 30 foot crater due to the steep sloping gully. The rest of the route is straight forward and well protected with a normal rack. We did leave two or three pitons in place. We bivouacked on the only ledge large enough, a perfectly flat triangle at the base of a dihedral. Even the last pitch is great, a hand crack splitting the summit block.

Scott Stewart, George Macheel June 1973

Getting There

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Route Description

Essential Gear

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External Links

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