East Gully

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 31.87722°N / 104.85806°W
Additional Information GPX File: Download GPX » View Route on Map
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.0 (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 1
Additional Information Grade: V
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

The East Gully Route is an off-trail bushwhacking and climbing route that links the El Capitan Trail with the summit of El Capitan. It is class 2/3 for the majority of the route, with the exception of the crux, which requires techincal climbing up a 50' cliff band. If you'd prefer to summit El Capitan without any technical climbing, see the Guadalupe Traverse Route. Do not attempt this route unless you have technical climbing experience and equipment, as well as experience scrambling, bushwhacking, and routefinding on difficult terrain.

Route Description

Follow the El Capitan Trail for 3 miles from Pine Springs. Cross the wash at the base of the El Capitan east gully and follow the gully to the cliff band at approximately 7600'. Follow your preferred route up the cliffs, then bushwhack to the west ridge and follow it to the summit. Use extreme caution near the edge of the ridge! It's a shear drop of over 1000' to desert floor below.

 

Route overview
Route overview
One possible route up the crux section
One possible route up the crux section
Looking back down the route from below the cliffs
Looking back down the route from below the cliffs
Old drill bit in a rock at the crux section
Old drill bit in a rock at the crux section
View from the summit
View from the summit
Looking back at Guadalupe Peak from the summit
Looking back at Guadalupe Peak from the summit

Essential Gear

Bring your choice of climbing equipment for the crux section, trekking poles, a headlamp, and plenty of food/water/electrolytes. Snake gaiters are also advisable.



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.