Page Type:
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Route |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
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45.16369°N / 117.30162°W |
Route Type:
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Scrambling |
Season:
|
Summer |
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Time Required:
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One to two days |
|
Difficulty:
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4/5th class scramble |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.3 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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1 |
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Grade:
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I |
|
Approach
The best way to access the east side of Eagle Cap is from Glacier lake via Glacier Pass. To get to Glacier lake simply follow the West Fork Wallowa trail (Directions to trailhead on Eagle Cap main page).Route Description
The trail heading North from Glacier Lake will take you to the top of Glacier Pass. From the top head west along the ridge toward Eagle Cap (this will be obvious). As the vegetation disappears and the grade steepens you will climb up some class 3 until reaching some vegetation just before a short vertical block. From here traverse south along the east face to the base of the east rib.
The east rib is the next rock feature to the south of the east ridge. Get on the rib via a wide Southeast facing ramp. The climbing is mainly 4th class with a few 5.easy moves. The rock is pretty solid but a fall near the top would definitely be fatal, use extreme caution and maybe even consider a belay.
This route offers a very fun alternative to the normal route and is one on the best ways to exploit what little granite we have here in Oregon.