East Ridge

Approach

For detailed information about approaches, please see the main page. The goal is to reach a snowfield/gully just south of the East Ridge. From Hilgard Basin, use the snow gully below the ridge to access the col. From Lake Eglise, make your way north to the unnamed lake below the southeast face of the peak. From point 11,062 (above the north fork of Papoose Creek), traverse the east side of the ridge (perhaps impassable without snow) and beneath the southeast face of the peak.

Route Description

From the col, move left and into a steep gully that leads to a rounded subsummit. A low 5th class traverse leads north to the true summit. These moves may be covered with snow and seem technically easier in winter. When approaching from the south, be sure to traverse as far north as possible before you start the climb. Several other couloirs and gullies may tempt you, but they lead to false summits which likely involve rappels to descend toward the true summit.

Essential Gear

Gear depends on many factors. In early season you will need an ice axe and crampons. Later you could do the entire thing in tennis shoes. The traverse to the summit is pretty exposed, so a short length of rope (30M) may help if you have exposure issues. A few nuts and slings should be plenty to provide any protection necessary. We used our rope only once, to rappell from just below the rounded subsummit due to rotten snow over steep, loose rock. Again, a 30M length of rope would have been sufficient.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.