Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.03010°N / 119.3814°W |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb (Slab) |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5.7 |
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Approach
The best approach to all climbs from the base of Tollhouse Rock is to use the PG&E dirt service road (as described on the main Tollhouse page). Descend to the base of Tollhouse Rock using the descent trail described (3rd class at best). As the trail bends to the right (at the base) skirt the base of the rock to the left end (NW) of Tollhouse. Locate a large right facing corner/crack that ascends up and out of sight. This is the Tollhouse Traverse (5.5., with a slabby 5.7 variation on the final pitch). From here, drop down the trail 75 more yards. Locate a large block next to the slab. The block creates an obvious right facing crack/off-width. This is the start to 'Elephant Walk'.
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Route Description
Pitch #1: (see photo)
One can either ascend the right facing crack/off-width to a ledge above (15'). Or skirt around the left side of the block and scramble to the ledge (4th class). After the ledge, a beautiful finger crack (solid 5.7!) ascends the face (pro to 2") to a three bolt anchor (140 feet).
Pitch #2:
From the two bolt anchor, climb slabby face using dishes and edges (5.7), which works up and left. The route is somewhat conservative on fixed anchors but does not warrant a 'runout' rating. 6 bolts to a three-bolt anchor on a stately ledge (150 feet).
Pitch #3:
Continue from the ledge straight up and follow 5 bolts (again, the line is conservative on bolts but enjoyable) to a three bolt anchor (150 feet). This pitch joins two other routes coming from the left ('Wandering Taoist', 5.9 and 'Falling Star', 5.8).
Pitch #4:
A variation exists after the second bolt above the anchors by heading straight up (5.8) and then rejoins the route at the end of 'Elephant Walk's line. Otherwise, head right and up after the second bolt to a small yet casual left facing corner/crack (pro to 3/8"). After the corner, follow three more bolts up and back left to a two bolt anchor (hanging belay on slab, 130 feet).
Pitch #5:
This is a somewhat short pitch (100 feet) that heads straight up (3 bolts)past a left leaning crack (the finishing crack of the Tollhouse Traverse, pro to 1/2"). The route stays 10 feet right of a large right facing corner. One can ascend the corner to the anchor (pro to 1") or continue to climb the bolted face (5.7...see photo of Deb soloing) above the crack past 3 more bolts to a two bolt anchor, just to the right of a large ledge.
Finish by ascending a 3rd/4th class crack to the top of Tollhouse (100') and locate a climbers trail on top of the Cap Rocks area, 200 yards to the SE). This trail will lead through manzanita and to a dirt 4x4 trail, which descends to the Hang Glider Slab (described on the main page).
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Essential Gear
+ 60 meter rope
+ 9 Quickdraws
+ Pro to 3" (#2 and #3 Camelot near the top of pitch #1)
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Ropeboy - Jan 8, 2006 8:47 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentIt was named Elephant Walk because the first ascent party, five of them, resembled a line of circus elephants when each one holds the tail of the one ahead with it's trunk.
robojeda - Apr 9, 2007 12:09 am - Voted 10/10
5.8 start variationPitch 1 can also start on the finger crack 5.8 to the right of the 5.7 crack start. The two converge about 20 feet up.
Dave Daly - Apr 9, 2007 10:59 am - Hasn't voted
Ok....SureIt's already in the SEKI guidebook. Gotta look at the name to ID it. Mark Hammond did the FA on that section many years ago, not that this is the question. But I suppose that EW can be done that way. As I remember, thin pro and grass growing in it.......
robojeda - May 2, 2007 7:56 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Ok....SureHey Dave, in the book it's just listed as a variation of the start. Honestly I think it's easier than the 5.7 chim, the fingers are thin but the moves are pleasant and it eats small cams & nuts. Excellent route overall.
Dragger - May 2, 2007 9:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Ok....SureI really like that variation as well -- the 5.8 fingers, 20 ft to the right of the original start of EW. Fun!!
robojeda - Mar 9, 2008 3:14 am - Voted 10/10
Bolt ReplacementReplaced the four bolts on pitch 2.