End Of Season, 6a+, 7.8.2017, Dalibor Motl, Lukáš Nalezenec

End Of Season, 6a+, 7.8.2017, Dalibor Motl, Lukáš Nalezenec

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.29160°N / 9.57665°E
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.10 (YDS)
Additional Information Difficulty: 7 UIAA (6b Fr.)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 9
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Overview

"End Of Season" is relatively new route in NW wall of Punta Torelli. Belays are protected by stainless bolts.  

Getting There

Best approach is from bivouac Pedroni-Del Prá placed in upper part of Val Codera (approx. 45min walk and scrambling).

Route Description

L1

5b

56m

Two variants are possible.

  1. Directly up (from belay with bolts) ussing cracks (5b).
  2. An easy climb (3) ussing large corner right from the first belay.

L2

3

55m

Easy corner climb. Follow the corner until reaching belay.

L3

6a

55m

From a large ledge climb a bit left and later right using delicate thin cracks in a slab. Finally cross a ridge into a corner.

L4

5a

45m

Follow the corner untill reaching ledge (belay) bellow nearly vertical wall.

L5

5c

40m

From belay just climb up following a prominent crack.

L6

5a

40m

Continue ussing the crack until its end on a ledge bellow a overhang (some loose stones!)

L7

6a+

40m

Traverse right bellow an overhang with crack (off width). The crack will help you reaching a slanting ramp (some snow can appear on the ramp depending season). Follow the ramp to the left. It will lead you to the vertical finger crack. Climb the crack (could be wet 6a+ or even 6b) to the belay.

L8

5a

50m

Climb up slabs and corners until reaching the last protected belay

L9

3-4

20m

Easy but a bit unstable terrain leading to a walkable ridge.

Essential Gear

60m ropes, set of friends, set of ballnuts (or couple of pittons), some nuts and slings.

External Links

https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/914461/en/punta-torelli-end-of-season

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