Enter Sandman, 5.11-, 6 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Enter Sandman is a new route established by Danny Urioste and company in 2022.  I led all the pitches on what is perceived to be the 2^nd ascent in early 2024.  It runs up the gut of the east face of Rainbow Mountain via a massive right facing corner that you tunnel through. The final approach to the climb itself starts at the very apex of the hill below the east face.  There is a huge cairn that hikers have long established at this spot.  However, there is no established trail up the hill, just various cairns.  I first climbed in this area of the east face a decade ago when I led my favorite off-width route in all of Red Rock, Da Boneyard, 5.10.  The scramble approach to Sandman is just uphill to the north from Da Boneyard.

The Faer’s chose to scramble to the north of the line, through brush and 4^th class choss, and then back left to avoid a nasty direct pitch up to a slung tree that serves as your last rap.  I did both the FA of that pitch and the circumventing scramble (on two different visits) and can confirm it is best to circumvent north and then back south to the base of the first real pitch of climbing.  However, if one wanted to make this route more attractable to the mountaineering adverse younger climbing class, a direct pitch looks like it could be established out left up a left facing corner, but that would involve some bolting to traverse back right.  As it stands now, Sandman has zero fixed hardware.  I found that refreshing and hope it stays that way.  It is good to have a few true alpine style adventures in Red Rock.

This route is labeled by the Faer’s on MP.com as 5.10+ but the same contributor gave the crux pitch a 5.11- rating?  It is all subjective, but the crux pitch will be stout and physical for any competent 5.10 climber.  They also call it a seven-pitch route whereas it is really just a six-pitch route.  They called their scramble option a pitch but most climbing at this grade will be comfortable unroped through this section.  The route itself involves, as implied by the name, a lot of sand, brush, dirt, loose rock, paper thin rock, etc.  What it lacks in quality of rock it almost makes up for in terms of diverse climbing.  The first roped pitch is essentially still part of the approach that is required to reach the base of the massive right facing corner.  Once you scramble up and right and bushwhack back left, you land a ledge by a slung tree that is your final rap.  Above is a lower angled weakness that climbs through brush and dirt to a short flaring steep yellow colored chimney.  The Faer’s considered this flaring crack 5.10aR, but I led it with a RP and bomber smaller off set cam and feel it is maybe PG, but not R.  Once through this short corner, you land the base of the major left facing corner system you will become quite intimate with for the next five pitches.  The 2^nd pitch is the crux of the route via easy runout chimneying to reach an awkward, steep to overhanging and sustained off-width at the grade.  The FAers gear call when I climbed the route was for a single to #6, doubles to #4.  It perplexed me in that they called the previous pitch runout, but not this one being led with a single #6.  Also, if you really required  doubles to #4 for any of the reminder of the climb, you will most certainly desire a #7 or #8 to safely get through the crux of the route, the beforementioned off-width on the 2^nd pitch.  The third pitch of the route requires a headlamp as you burrow deep into the abyss of the chimney within the massive corner.  The rock is perilous for the next several pitches of chimneying and tunneling, but no more difficult than 5.9.  These 3^rd-4^th pitches eventually spit you back out on a small ledge in the main corner.  The last two pitches make for better climbing than the previous two.  Climb a fun stem box while placing plenty of smaller gear (5.10) to another ledge.  From there, finish the massive corner via a short wide corner section and proceed up and left to a large ledge below a pretty damn good tight hands splitter, by Red Rock standards.  The Faer’s were surprised to be rewarded by this finish and had no idea it was there.  A true #.75 to #1 splitter to the top of the wall and the first of four full double 60m rope raps.

Park at the Oak Creek Trailhead off of the loop road.  Hike as you would for Solar Slab, etc.  Turn right at the first signed intersection and hike this trail below the east face of Rainbow Mountain.  At a sharp right turn in the tail, leave it to head west through brush and boulders through a break in the chossy red band up hill.  Stay on the south side of the drainage.  There are a few cairns but no trail to follow.  Well before you reach the main east face, start to diagonal right and cross the drainage where ever it makes sense.  The base of the wall is well protected by oak scrub, so it is best not to circumvent the face where you will find no trail.  After crossing the drainage to the north, aim for the apex of the hill laying against the face.  Locate a ramp, right to left, that takes you up to a significant shade tree.  This is where you leave the packs.  Although I have climbed the chimney directly above to another tree, it is not recommended due to being too loose.  Rather scramble up and right into a loose 4^th class chimney system.  Traverse left whenever you think you are even with the tree above the direct chimney above your packs.  In all, this final approach is approximately 300’ of 4^th class choss and bushwhacking.  Rope up near the tree which also serves as your last rap (slung as of 2024).  This is where I advise leaving approach shoes.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 130’-5.10aPG/ Many of the lengths given on MP.com by the Faer’s seemed longer than they actually are, including this pitch stated at 150’.  I never really felt the 5.10a on this pitch, but like most of the route, the rock quality on this pitch is lacking enough to make some of the climbing feel more gripped.  Climb the relatively low angled obvious weakness up to a short flaring steep chimney section.  Sling a horn and step up to fix a rp or small wire.  Make another chimney move or two and place a bomber small offset cam.  The Faer’s called this section R, but I felt at most it was PG.  Switch to stemming and grab a good hold up and right and mantel up to the ledge that enters a chimney to your left.

2^nd Pitch- 115’-5.11-/ Again, this pitch is closer to 115’ vs 130’ as suggested by the Faer’s in their initial posting.  Easily climb the chimney unprotected until you can place a #8.  There is a spot for a #6, but this one small constriction and placement will be baggy and one side of the rock at this placement is somewhat hollow.  Therefore, I recommend using a #8 above it.  Once this first piece is placed, move out of the chimney to the outside and make the immediate transition to #6 off-width.  You can walk this piece for a move or two before you can get a #5.  The crack continues to taper down in size all the way to #1’s before reaching a comfortable chockstone in the chimney that takes a #4 for the belay.

3^rd Pitch- 100’-5.9/ Don a headlamp and traverse south into the massive chimney system.  Climb softly as some of the walls are covered in a layer of paper thin choss.  Step and pull softly on any rock in this chimney.  Once in the back of it, start to chimney up and then in short order work your way back north via easy chimney along several chockstones to almost the outside edge of the corner system again and onto a comfortable chockstone with medium pro for a belay.  The Faer’s referred to this section as a “cave”, but it is really just a deep chimney.  Utilize plenty of extension and double rope management to avoid rope drag.

4^th Pitch- 90’-5.9/ Continue up the chimney above with less need of a headlamp.  This pitch spits you out onto a small ledge back to sunlight.  Climb up a short chimney to a fixed rap (#2 on descent) ledge.  Belay here with plenty of options for small gear.

5^th Pitch- 70’-5.10/ These last two pitches, along with the lower crux pitch, are the best pitches of the route.  Climb a corner to the base of a fun red colored stem-box.  Place plenty of small gear in the twin cracks as you stem up the box and shortly land at another comfortable belay ledge below a #6 wide corner.

6^th Pitch- 120’-5/9/ Again, this pitch is shorter than noted by the Faer’s.  If you brought a larger piece as I suggest in the gear call, you can place it to protect the start of this pitch and then use your #6 up higher.  But you are never really climbing OW as there are plenty of features on the wall to the right.  Land a large ledge on the left and continue up a tight-hands splitter that is plug-n-go with #.75-#2.  At the top of the wall, bushwhack up and right to locate slung bushes which represent your first rap.  The Faer’s mention to belay when the crack tapers to fingers, but it never does that.  Just exit up and right to find cord threaded through several bushes (2024).

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Make a full double 60m rope rap back to the fixed rap (reinforced 2024) atop the 4^th pitch.  Make a full double 60m rope rap to a fixed #1 and Tricam (2024) just to climber’s left of the crux pitch, out on the face.  This is a hanging stance.  With double 70m ropes, you can reach a slung boulder at the base of the crux pitch.  In any regard, make another double rope rap to a slung tree where I advised leaving your shoes on approach.  Make one final double rope rap (reinforced 2024) back to your packs. 

Essential Gear

Double 60m ropes.  Single to #6 + a #8.  Double from #.75 to #4.  I used a Merlin #8 and felt it was perfect for assisting in protecting the crux section.  Small selection of RPs or wires and/or offset cams.  Plenty of slings for extension.  Headlamp is helpful for the chimney pitches.  Route gets sun in the morning, shade all afternoon.