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4951 Hits
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74.92% Score
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5 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.84000°N / 119.46°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.6 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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5.6R |
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Number of Pitches:
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4 |
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Grade:
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II |
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Approach
From the road side scramble up third class slabs towards Hermaphrodite Flake (the large detached flake more or less in the center of the face above) until a sloping ledge angles off towards the base of the huge left-facing dihedral in the center of the dome. Follow the ledge to a large flake leaning against the face to the left of the base of the dihedral. The climb starts on the left side of this flake.Route Description
Supertopo describes this route in five pitches. With a 60m rope it is easily climbed in three. Despite the runout sections, this climb is in fact quite safe. The angle is almost low enough to ignore the corner altogether and just friction walk up.
Pitch 1: Follow the left-hand side of the flake up to where a short traverse right can be made into the dihedral. This traverse can be protected with a medium-sized cam stuffed into an undercling, or you can use the undercling as a handhold. Follow the dihedral up. lt soon turns into a boulder-choked chimney. Supertopo says to belay low in the chimney, but a better option is to continue up to a break in the chimney where a large, comfortable ledge is found.
Pitch 2: From the large ledge clamber over large rocks in the now-widening chimney until it is necessary to actually climb. Bracing your right shoulder against the wall and working your hands and feet upwards is the preferred method of ascent, and is very secure. After about 60 feet the chimney pinches off to a wide crack, where mega cams in the 6" size range can be used to provide protection. The crack soon widens out again, but the whole shebang starts slanting right, meaning that any slip will carry you deeper into the chimney. So no worries, mate, climb on! Belay at a pair of bolts on a ledge up on the right side of the corner.
Pitch 3: Continue up the corner in a lieback (5.6, good pro) until reaching a roof. Supertopo says to belay just beneath the roof. Blasphemy! Deke right past the end of the roof, climb up a bit , then traverse left 40-50 feet until reaching a right-facing corner that leads up to easier ground and your choice of belay options.
Pitch 4: Just keep going up real easy stuff until you decide you don't need a rope any more.