Journey Home, IV, 5.10

Overview/Approach

(photo above is Dow leading the 5th, off-width, pitch) One must ask how the local Black Canyon guide book (2020) can assign a six pitch 5.10 route an Alpine IV rock grade?  Having lived and climbed in Canada for so many years, I have yet to figure out how any rock route short of including gacier travel approach (i.e. the Bugaboos) gets an alpine grade at all.  Relative to other routes in the Black, Journey Home does almost earn that alpine grade by offering the most sustained climbing, measured inch by inch, at its grade in the Canyon.  Where Scenic Cruise climbs all kinds of broken ground and maneuvers back and forth on the wall, Journey takes a direct line up an incredible left facing corner (morning shade). 

Reading Colorado front range climber’s posts on Mountain Project, the first pitch appears to have reached the level of climbing lore with opinions varying from R to X.  However, most experienced alpinists will find the pitch reasonably protectable for a 5.8/9 start.  I believe it is the inability of not being able to see the placements in advance that seems to bother most on this pitch.  The first moves are intimidating and committing before you can get gear in but go well below grade of the route.   The 5.10 portion of this first pitch, higher up, is quite punchy but well protected.  The 2^nd and 4^th pitches offer stunning corner crack climbing at the grade, varied and sustained.  The 5^th pitch even offers up some real off-width for a short section.  The route offers variety.

Head down Cruise Gully.  Well before reaching Scenic Cruise there is a massive recessed cleft splitting the North Chasm Wall.  Instead of scrambling 5^th class from the very base of this jumbled terrace as the local guide suggests, look for a 5^th class slab ramp well before reaching the base of the cleft and angle into the terrace from Cruise gully from the east.  Once in the gully below the cleft, ascend up and left as far as you can go west essentially, and that is where Journey Home begins (at the edge of a ledge left of the cleft).  There is a direct right side variation at a higher grade with tricky pro, but the FA starts atop a boulder (everybody seems to call this a pillar?) to the left (attached to the face).  From there, move left and then trend back right to start the corner you will be in all day.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 30m- 5.10R/ Start from a boulder (not a pillar as listed in the guide).  Step out to the wall and make a committing move left (5.9) to more positive holds (5.8).  Climb up to the over cling and place your first solid pro (20’), a medium piece. You can climb up and left slightly to sling a horn before starting the rightward traverse.  I found a decent #.3 slot along the way (traversing back right from the horn).  Catch the shallow corner/flake that takes a #.2 and climb it to the main corner filled with pegmatite.  Pull the finger lock bulge (strenuous) (5.10) to reach a dirty sloping hand pocket.  Climb easier ground to a comfortable ledge below the main corner.  Rock at the crux is not great, but well protected.

2^nd Pitch- 60m- 5.10/ In my opinion, the best 5.10 pitch in the Black Canyon.  This pitch has a little of everything including stemming, jamming and a cool roof pull.  It is also sustained.  You can unload your double rack on this varnished left facing corner that stays shaded all morning in June.  Follow the corner, crack which leads to a slot below a roof.  Jam the roof and make haste with your feet.  Continue up to a ledge below a pegmatite corner that leans right.  Solid gear.

3^rd Pitch- 40m- 5.10-/ Move left to take on the 5.10- finger corner or move up and right to locate the 5.9+ hand crack.  I followed the corner.  Layback and finger jam varied pegmatite.  It steepens near the top.  Stop at a semi hanging stance below dark rock.  Solid gear.

4^th Pitch- 40m- 5.10/ Thoughtful and sustained well varnished corner pitch.  A mix of movement manipulating the corner.  More rests than the 2^nd pitch and no more difficult, but more intricate.  Takes all the gear you want to place.  Stay up and right at the end, vs ending left on the large ledge.  Belay at a decent stance.  Solid gear.

5^th Pitch- 60m- 5.10-/ Climb up the wide crack which leads to two sections of true off-width.  The first is protected with a #4 and the second is protected with a #3.   Typical OW (5.10-) chicken wing or two and some stemming will lead you out of these cracks and up and right to a darker colored left facing dihedral crack.  Stem and jam up this final climbing obstacle (5.9). Continue on the ledge area up and left to a small wrap around ledge.

6^th Pitch- 25m-5^th Class/ Finish up the obvious dirty ledges to a tree belay on the walk off ledge. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Hike west until you reach the standard right leaning ramp up to the north rim campground trail.

Essential Gear

60m rope.  Single to #4, double to #2. Wires and/or off-set cams. You can place a lot of nuts if you want. The #4 works well in the off-width section. Ten shoulder length slings.  If you get a reasonable start, first half of the route shades itself well on a summer day.