Klondike Bluffs

Overview

Marching Men

Klondike Bluffs is a ridge of summits located within Arches National Park. It is not exactly clear which point is the highest, a few trip reports have a debate about 2 options and both can be reached in one half day outing. Both possible highest points require low 5th class scramble. 

Klondike Bluffs are located in western part of Artches N.P. This area is less frequented with visitors since it is away from the main paved road through the park. It is still passable for regular vehicles. This part of Arches is spectacular and allows you to explore other tower formations, such as Marching Men and Tower Arch. Just outside the national park boundary is a popular mountain biking area also called Klondike Bluffs.

Quad: Klondike Bluffs

Parent Lineage: Elephant Butte (the highest point of Arches National Park)

Class: 5.2

Getting There

Klondike Bluffs is located within Arches National Park and can be accessed from the park site, or from the west. I chose the west approach since I was driving into Moab and wanted to explore Marching Men area. The west approach is much longer, and you can avoid paying national park entrance fee (I own interagency pass, so the entry fee was not important to me. I wanted to avoid slow driving through the park and lines of cars at the entry into the park). 

From the west: From Crescent Junction on I-70, take the main highway 191 south to Moab. Turn east onto well signed road for South Klondike Trails and follows this road past the biking area. When the road starts to turn south, continue straight onto a smaller dirt road and soon after the road becomes rougher. We opted to park here and hike in following some ATV roads and then cross country joining with an established trail inside Arches National Park (see Gaia.gps below). 

From the east: Enter Arches National Park and continue on the main road through the park past Sand Dune Arch. Shortly after enter onto good gravel road marked Salt Valley and continue on this road to Tower Arch Trailhead. The drive through the park is long, but it gets you right below Klondike Bluffs. 

Route

Hike up on the east side of Klondike Bluffs - if driving from Arches N.P. you are looking at your approach. If hiking from the west, follow the trail to almost the trailhead for Tower Arch. 

Circumnavigate between cliffs in northerly direction on the east side of the formation, until you encounter a weakness between the cliffs (see photo) and ascend up. Steep, but not technical, class 2+. We wanted to summit both summits since there is a controversy which one is the highest one. We headed first south (left) through a gully and found a chimney - low 5th class - which took us to below summit block. The summit block was only class 4/possibly 5.0 scramble, not very big. We returned the same way, there was a sling around a boulder to rappel from. 

2nd summit is located further north. There are several weakness in the cliffs, which took us to a large plateau and we walked to the 2nd summit block. The weakness was obvious and involved a few low to mid 5th class moves. This summit appeared slightly lower. It was large and there were slings and rappel ring around a small bush. 

Climbing was not that exciting - easy 5th class for both summits, but views and scenery are incredible. 

Gear: one short rope (30 meter length would suffice), slings, you could bring gear if not feeling comfortable soloing low to mid fifth class (cams 1-4).

 

Red Tape

Klondike Bluffs are located within national park, so national park regulations do apply. There is a permit fee to enter Arches, howerver for this outing it could be bypassed if coming from the east. You just walk from dirt roads at Klondike Bluffs mountain biking area and cross on foot into Arches.

When to Climb

Summers are hot. Winter is great as long as conditions are dry. Autumn and spring are most likely the best seasons. 

Camping

You can also camp for free when driving along the dirt road to access South Klondike Trails. The campsites are primitive, no trees, and very hot and dusty in the summer. 

External Links

• Klondike Bluffs on List of John
• Klondike Bluff Dinosaur Track
• Klondike Bluff Mountain Biking
• Klondike Bluff Mountain Biking

Images

View Klondike Bluffs Image Gallery - 10 Images