Lake Route

Overview

This is the main, and what seemed to be the only used route up the mountain.

Getting There

Refer to main page.

Route Description

From the lake at the point where the trail first encounters it's shore, ascend the slope to the left and slip through the notch in the ridgeline. Traverse across the next valley as you gain altitude up the glacier-carved grove. Gain the next ridge over, which will offer 3rd and 4th class climbing over another ridge where Nevado Veronica will pop out at you across the gorge. Veer down and left onto the glacier and continue in a circular fashion across the glacier,vigilant for crevasses. Within 30-40 minutes on the glacier, you'll encounter a short section of rock that can be ascended to the summit of Halancoma Norte.

From it's summit, the route to Halancoma Media can easily be made out. The fastest way is via the glaciers, which used to all be connected five years ago. Now slabby rock that's negotiated with a little challenge in crampons will deliver you to the higher glacier on the east side of Halancoma Media. The glacier is steeper than it looks and some front-pointing is required. This section can be done with a regular, straight ice ax though a ice climbing tool would be nice. Once above the glacier, there's a choice between a severely exposed, 80-meter rock climb on the right and a mellow ridge to the left. The ridge is recommended for descent.

Descent:
Re-tracing the steps up is an option or following the first glacier to near it's end with a slight right onto the slope can deliver you to a small plateau. After some scrambling down and up through the passages on the plateau, the valley with the lake and base camp will reveal itself. This alternate route makes for a quick descent through scree and soft patches of mossy vegetation.

Essential Gear

Normal mountaineering and crevasse rescue gear including a short rope. A long, straight ice ax will do well, but an ice tool would be nice, too.

External Links

Add External Links text here.