Les papas

Overview

After some rock falls destroyed the common route at the west face of Petit Dru, especially the route of the Bonatti pillar, in January 2007 french climbers Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen climbed a new route on the west face of Petit Dru in some days. Dumas and Fredriksen used some bolts, but did not tell where they used them. After La Guillotine their gimlet broke and they could not drill any holes for bolts

Route description

The route begins at the end of a couloir. Follow the crack (Le bac à sable). The crack ends in a bunch of sand, which maybe is caused by rockfall. After some meters there ist a huge flake and a chimney (Le presse ail, 3rd pitch). Follow the crack system over band with al lot of debris. After that two pitches follow, which are called Moulin à legumes and La centrifugeuse. After those pitches the route follows the big crack until you see a big boulder, which sits on a small flake (La guillotine). Now 20m to the right (pendulum) and up on the remained 30m of Bonatti Pillar. Go a little left to the center of the west face. A crack above the new shoulder of Bonatti Pillar leads up.
Down from Petit Dru by the ordinary way (AD).

Essential Gear

At least a two racks of nuts and cams, aliens, 20 pegs, bird beaks, double rope, crampons, ice-axes, ice-screws, helmet, bivy equipment and enough food for some days.

More

See Vertical #5/2007, p. 8 for more information and photos