Logan MASSIF

By anyone's standards the scale of the Logan Massif is truly awe-inspiring. Many experienced Himalayan climbers have said that they always though they had seen truly gigantic peaks in their lives until they had their first glimpse of Logan. It absolutely soars some 3000 m higher than the surrounding glaciers and peaks and many people remark how it completely occupies the horizon even from a great distance.

Logan is the largest ice sheet not part of an ice cap in the world, it has about a dozen peaks that rise from its summit plateau which itself is about 20 km long and 5 km wide and totally dominates the top of the massif. To top this off many of the peaks have their own sub-peaks, and there are dozens of ridgelines, many of which have never been climbed or even attempted. It is the "largest" mountain in the world. Well actually it has the largest base circumference so in my books it is the largest.

To put it in perspective most the Zermatt would nicely fill in the summit plateau or you take the entire High Peaks Region of the Adirondacks or you if you like you can take Mont Blanc and Kilimajaro put them on the plateau and there would still be room left for the Eiger. That aside the aptly but unimaginably named Summit Peak of Logan is the highest point in Canada and the second highest in North America.

Logan is the crown jewel of Kluane National Park as well it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It sits in the southeast corner of the park, very very far away from any trailhead or road and because of this there is never a crowd on the peak. It is truly one of world's last wild places. You can even consider one of the few if you manage to get close enough to see the peak. One needs to hike in for a day or two even to catch sight of it.

Here is a list of just some of the peaks on Logan:

Though not a technically difficult mountain to climb, many people have skied all the way to the top and on one occasion I know of, right over the top and mistakenly back down the other side. There has also been an unguided (though supervised) party of 16 to 18 year olds that have made the summit even a blind fellow has made it to the top. This being said it is still a very serious undertaking to even make an attempt on it. It is very isolated, very high, very cold, and subject to severe snowstorms and weather at any time of the year on a scale that is only surpassed by Mt St. Elias and makes the weather on Denali seem like a summer breeze.

Getting There

The mountain is normally accessed only by air charter. Your choices are either ski-equipped aircraft or helicopter which are available at Haines Junction, Silver City, and Burwash Landing in the Yukon, and at Yakutat and Chitina River in Alaska. The occasional party makes its way in from the Alaska Highway or even the Gulf of Alaska but this is just as, if not more, difficult than the actual climb up the mountain. You are talking about humping 30-50kg packs while pulling a 50-80kg sledge for well over 100km. If you are really keen on getting up it there are a number of guided tours which can cost you upwards of 10k$ and are only for people with a great deal mountain experience. Most trips to the area last from 3 to 8 weeks so you must be prepared for such a trip in very primitive and isolated contidions. No cell phones, only partial satilite phone coverage, no rescue service and expect to help out and loose your summit bid (happend to me), if another party has an emergancy.

Red Tape

Fortunately, one must apply for and receive a mountaineering license to even attempt to climb Mount Logan. This must be done at least 90 days before starting the climb and believe it or not there are parties that show up and want to climb it and are refused because they have not even applied for a permit. To just go near it a wilderness permit is required for Kluane Park but it is only $5 per day up to a maximum of $50. As well there is a $30 Aircraft landing fee that is charged over the charter fee.

When To Climb

No season is really good as the peak is very near the Gulf of Alaska so storms can blow in at anytime and many parties have spent their entire trip hunkered down in their tents. The normal climbing season is from late April to early July with the weather getting worse as the summer progresses and then turning very ugly when winter arrives Some say that the winter ascent is best but this is not for the faint of heart as it is difficult to get an air charter, the temperature is very extreme -40c down to -75c at altitude without wind-chill, the wind is severe 50-150kph and to top it off one is very far North there are only a few hours of light (2-4) in the day. So if you like very cold camping at altitude in the dark this is the place for you.

Camping

If you are comming to this area you will need to bring everything with you as there are no stores, huts or any other items of civilization. Many parties have in the past cached food for the trip out and some have been very disappointed only to find that something ate the cache while they were not there. This pratice is now discouraged by the ranger service if it has not already been banned. A permit is require to camp in the park but it is only 5$ a day to a max of 50$.

Mountain Conditions

A good site is Bivouac.com and then search for the page on Logan. The Trip reports here are very good and should show you what such a trip is like. As well they have links to some of the latest guided tours to the area.

What's In a Name

The Peak is named after Sir William Edmond Logan the first head of the GSC (Geological Survey of Canada) a post that he held from 1842 to 1869. He was, along with Sir Stanford Flemming, was one of the early proponents of the system of world time zones that are now in use. As of late there has been a very partisan political movement to rename Logan to "Trudeau Peak ". Needless to say most is not all of us mountain types here in Canada are against this and so are a large number of climbers from around the world as Logan is truly an international Peak in the same what that Everest, and K2 are. Here is a link where you can leave your comments on why is should not be renamed. Geomatics Canada as well as this link with a few more details Mount Logan It Should Remain

External Links

• Biviac.com
  Great site on all the major peaks in Canada and a very good section on Logan
• Mountaineering in the Icefields (incl. Mount Logan)
  Kluane National Park & Reserve website
• GERMAN MOUNT LOGAN EXPEDITION 2001
  
  
• Montrealers making it in 2003
  Nice report that was sent by satellite link as they did the mountain!
• A trip report in both French and English. Good photos as well.
  
  
• The East Ridge of Mount Logan
  An interesting web page with a day-by-day account of an attempt of the E ridge of Mt Logan