Mellomtind

Overview

Mellomtind: Middle Peak
This is the middle of 3 minor peaks on the outer edge of Kvaløya. The scramble up isn't so fantastic, but the south facing slope holds a collection of moderate climbs that are perfect for a short day out when the motivation is low, or the weather is questionable. The views from the top are excellent, as it is on the edge of the open ocean, has great views of the jagged peaks of Senja, the Ersfjord Traverse peaks, and all the surrounding small islets and inlets.

Just below the climbers summit is an enormous ledge called the sun ledge. It faces Southwest and has amazing views to Senja and the open sea. It's better to hang out here than to acheive the true summit of Mellomtind which is basically the tallest chunk of talus.

Getting There

The Drive:

From Tromsø it is a little over an hours drive.
Cross the bridge to Kvaløya on route 862. Follow this road for 10 kilometers or so until reaching a junction where 862 goes right, and 858 goes left. Stay on 862 and continue to Kaldfjord. There should now be a fjord on your right. Stay on 862 until it leaves the water and turns left. DO NOT turn left, stay right, hugging the shoreline. Continue following the shore until reaching a sign to Tromvik. Stay on this road as it winds along the shore, over a pass and past a lake, and down again to Grøtfjord. Drive all the way past Grøtfjord until reaching the village of Tromsvik. This feels like the end of the road, but its not. The road now turns to gravel and goes up over yet another pass. Before reaching the pass, about 4-6 kilometers, watch for a lake on the right hand side. There is parking close to a small bridge that crosses to the outlet of the lake.

The Hike:About an hour for the first time.

Find a well established use path on the northern shore of the lake. The trail fades into a luscious thick bog that requires pretty hefty boots if you plan on keeping your feet dry. Skirt around the lake and head for the pass on the south side of Mellomtind. If you lost the path, you should regain it in the small birch trees as the ascent begins. It's important to find the path, as the bush can be pretty tight in this area.
Continue up the steep use path until reaching a hanging valley with yet another soggy marsh to cross. There is a decent path on the right side.
Do not turn uphill too soon, continue on to the true pass where you can see down to the open sea, then you can begin hopping up the talus and grass hummocks to the base of the climbing routes.

The Routes

All routes are 3 pitches in length.
Himmel og Hav: Heaven and Sea 5.6 (Norwegian 5-)
This is supposed to be the best route on this face, and it does have a nice variety of cracks from fingers to wide liebacks. Each pitch is easier than the one before, the last pitch could be simulclimbed. The crux is about halfway up the first pitch where the beginning crack ends at a roof, and the climber must make a balancy step-over to the next crack to the right. Once that move is accomplished, great jamming compensates for the lichen and mossy bits that follow.

Fornøyelses Kanal: Amusement Channel 5.9 (Norwegian 6-)
I can't describe this climb from my own experience, but it's clear that the crux is shortly after the start, and it's cleaner than it at first appears. It's a bit of an oddity as it's a chimney for 2 full pitches.

God på Bunnen: Good at the Bottom 5.6
See route description.

Descent: Turn right (east) from the sub-summit and follow the wide gully back to the base.

External Links

Climbing Overview A collection of climbing areas all over Kvaløya, some pics of Himmel og Hav, Fornøyelses Kanal, and a good photo overlay of routes.
TOPO and map

Images

View Mellomtind Image Gallery - 10 Images