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Route |
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Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb - TR or Trad |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5.5 - about 50ft |
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Approach
This climb is located on the Atlantis wall. Atlantis is a nice little area near the southern end of Lost Horse. It's a short wall that sits in a narrow canyon that's pretty well sealed off from the West, so you have to loop around and come in from the east. This means that it doesn't get much in the way of a breeze, so it can be pretty sweltering on a hot day, but it's nice when the weather's a bit cooler.
Atlantis is often overrun with classes and large groups of TRs, due to the easy walk off (down the gully on the far side of the formation from the climbs). TRs are easy to set along the entire length of the formation.
Lost Horse is located between Quail Springs (Trashcan Rock) and Hidden Valley Campground on the south side of Quail Springs Road.
Head south on the Lost Horse Road -- as you near the gate (where you can't drive any further) there are a few dirt parking areas. The further down the road you can park, the shorter approach.
On foot head east from the road -- from here, pretty much all of the main Lost Horse formations will be on your left. After a few hundred yards, you should come to a low spot in the rocks on your immediate left. Here, turn left and head back into the rocks. Almost immediately, you'll pass the Atlantis descent gully, and then a low scramble over the toe of the Atlantis buttress. Once you're into the next, wide gully, turn left again. A little more scrambling and Atlantis will be up on your left.
Route Description
Men With Cow's Heads takes the right-hand (more or less straight up) crack of the prominent Y-shaped crack formation in the middle of the Atlantis Wall. (Solar Technology (5.6) is the left-slanting crack).
This climb protects well and would make a great beginner TR or lead.
Another crack splits off to the left about 2/3 of the way up this climb. Vogel doesn't rate it as a distinct climb, but it goes at around 5.6+.
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Essential Gear
Standard rack to hand size.
Long slings for setting an anchor on top.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.