Mescalote Tower, 5.10, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Having climbed in Red Rock for decades, it is virtually impossible to see new ground with the exception of newly established routes.   OB Button, 5.10b, and OB Fist, 5.10c, are a couple of obscure, but worthy, single pitch trad routes that require a scramble to reach on the south face of Mescalito, well west of Cat in the Hat.  Some locals took it upon themselves to establish an extension of these side-by-side routes.  As of 2022, they have established three additional pure trad pitches up the south face.  They have a fourth pitch under construction and hope to add an additional pitch or two in the future nearing the top of Mescalito.  The sub quality aspect of the rock high up on this wall might curtail those efforts.

OB Fist is the preferred start to Mescalote, but either route (OB Button) will get you to the same place.  The second pitch is a short pitch, moving the belay essentially, through fragile rock.  The third pitch, albeit short, is a nicely varnished wide crack off a ledge to a more jumbled ledge.  The fourth pitch is stunning in character and offers a diverse 5.9 chimney lead through mostly good rock to the top of the tower. 

Park at Pine Creek Canyon and hike towards Cat in the Hat.  As you pass under Cat in the Hat on the southeast corner of Mescalito, continue west in the wash looking for a west to east vegetated ramp on your right.  Follow this ramp back east until you locate a huecoed 4^th class chimney.  Ascend this chimney past a lone rap bolt on your left.  Continue contouring east ascending to a vegetated position below the obvious heavily varnished left facing corner which is the start of OB Fist.  The tower you are climbing to the top off is not well defined when looking from below.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 165’-5.10c/ The majority of this pitch is an established route named OB Fist and rated 5.10c on MP.com.  Aptly named as its crux is a physical roof pull via a fist jam at the grade.  Stem up the obvious left facing corner transitioning out of the corner to a hand splitter out left that leads to a roof.  A pair of C4 #1’s protect the roof well allowing you to either do a left or right arm bar.  Placing a #4 negates that ability.  The left arm bar requires a possible heel hook or aggressive leveraged right hand jam.  The right arm bar gives one the option of attempting to mantle with their left hand on a varnished hold out on the lip.  Continue up the chossy crack above and as it peters out, traverse up and right on suspect rock below the grade to the base of a chossy right facing short corner at a belay stance on a bush (2022) with small gear (#.3 is the best piece) in a poor quality crack.  If you hauled the #5 up for the next several pitches, it fits in a varnished hole as part of this anchor.

2^nd Pitch- 50’- 5.8/ Climb up the precarious loose rock corner to a large ledge and belay at the base of the wide varnished OW crack.

3^rd Pitch- 70’-5.8/ Climb the fun off-width with good rock.  A #7 and #6 can be placed but are not necessary depending on the leader’s comfort level at the grade.   A #5 fits in a constricted spot mid-way.  Land a jumbled ledge and belay with medium gear in the obvious opposing corners above. Notice the bolted rap out right. 

4^th Pitch- 115’- 5.9/ Stem and chimney up the fun and cavernous opposing corners.  This pitch takes mostly large gear.  Despite its varnished appeal, there is still loose and hollow rock on this pitch. Belay on top of the tower.  A bolted rap is on the main wall and can be reached by stemming across the void. 

(a 5^th pitch is under construction, but not exactly complete as of 2022)

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Make a single 70m rope rap down the 4^th pitch.  Locate the bolted rap on the eastern edge of the ledge.  Make a double 50m rope rap down to a bolted fixed rap above the roof on the 1^st pitch.  Make a 70m single rope rap to the ground.  These raps are not ideal as laid out and are under reconsideration as of 2022.

Essential Gear

Double ropes. Single from micro to #6.  Doubles from #.75 thru #3. Wires and/or off sets.  A dozen shoulder length slings.  Most of this gear is necessitated by the existing 1^st pitch route, OB Fist.  Route faces south but retains shade late into the day from the opposing wall in the canyon.