Mt Arrowsmith - Cokeley Wall-Crystal Pistol

Overview

In my opinion, this is one of the primo WI4's on the Island. 120m of ice that ranges from 65 deg to dead vertical. Almost all of the vertical sections are thin and hard to protect, but there's solid gear in most of the rest. I had 8 placements in 120m, which isn't bad for the Island. I think that it is pretty serious leading for the grade but the position is outstanding and the climbing really is great! FA by John Simpson and Rick Eppler in 1976! Impressive climbing considering the hardware of the time.

Getting There

Continue on Pass Main, driving if your lucky but more likely snowshoeing, past the Weepy Wall / Saddle Route area. At the top of the next rise turn to the right and enter the gate for the old Mt Cokely Ski hill area. About another 1km to the climb. You won't miss it, the BIG right facing dihedral with all of the ice next to it.
Head into the woods about 30m before the base of the climb up a moderate slope and continue up to the rock. Traverse left along the rocks to the base of the climb. Even thought there is a forest above the area, shelves along the outskirts of the climb accumulate considerable snow and small avalanches can and do happen. I saw one that dropped 2.5m of debris to the base of the climb. Wait for the right conditions.

Route Description

120m is a bit of understatement, probably more like 130m when all is said and done. I split the climb into 2 pitches with some simu-climbing on the first pitch. The first ascentionist did it in 4 pitches, there are logical rests to break the climb up that much...your discretion

P1: 15m of mellow (50 to 60 deg) thin ice lead to the first curtain. Although the curtain is only maybe 3 or 4m it is spooky and thin. Drift something into the ice before you commit as there's no gear for another 10 or 15m. Continue up moderate ice (~65 to 70 deg)to the tree belay and flat section at the far right. The total length of this pitch is around 70m so your partner will have to simu up to the spooky curtain for you to get to the belay. It'll go.

P2: 60m. A 10m 75 deg ramp leads to the gem of the climb. 2 Possibilities (more depending on protection ability than technical climbing ability don't get suckered into a big fall on this part). Directly in front is a 20m dead vertical curtain that is pretty thin. It looks like it's only about 12m high, but after a tiny little ledge it continues for another 8m. Pro is really scarce on this part. Other option is a rising travers left to a less angled (75 deg) ramp that skirts the first part of the curtain and joins up with it again after the little ledge, better gear on this option but less steepness. Follow ramps and corners up to 80 deg to a tree belay at the top.

Descent: 3 Raps
Rap 1: Full 60m gets you to the tree belay
Rap 2: Full 60 m gets you to below the spooky first curtain
Rap 3: Abalakov rap to the base of the climb.

Essential Gear

10 Screws up to 21cm. Err towards the stubbies
Double ropes!
A couple of KBs or small Arrows just in case.
Abalakovs

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