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16243 Hits
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87.76% Score
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25 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.02460°N / 114.97328°W |
County:
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Custer |
Activities:
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Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling |
Season:
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Summer, Fall |
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Elevation:
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10480 ft / 3194 m |
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As the 10th highest mountain in the Sawtooths, Sevy is the highest technical summit in the range. Located on the main Sawtooth Crest, the peak intersects with a perpendicular ridge that extends east to it's terminus as the Finger of Fate. The airy summit ridge overlooks nearly all it's surrounding extreme terrain on solid slabs of granite. Still, with all these accolades the peak sees few visitors. Before 2009, the only known ascents included the Tom Lopez party and the Mark Weber party. A ruined log in a PVC summit tube was found near the summit most recently, and it was updated.
Mt. Sevy is easily overlooked by arguably the greatest rock formation in the range, The Finger of Fate. Climbers visiting from other areas will climb the Finger, and rightfully so. After the Finger of Fate in this area, The Arrowhead is the next logical choice. On a bonus day after climbing the Finger, both The Arrowhead and Mt. Sevy (given their proximity), could easily be done in one day and would provide a great and diverse exploration of the Sawtooth's technical climbing realm. The Arrowhead provides one of the tougher (5.9) free climbs up the west face and crack system with a spectacular fin summit that is often saddled at the finish. The formation also provides a whistling sound from afar with the slightest wind. Mt. Sevy offers a bit more scrambling over mostly stable Class 3 terrain, and then an airy but easy 5.4 finish on it's rocky fang of a summit makes for quite an adventure.
Routes
South Ridge (5.4):
The South summit ridge climbs through a notch out on scantily protectable slabs. The true summit is a smooth block that sits just west of the intersection of the Sawtooth Crest and the east ridge of Sevy. To reach the summit, climb south and just under it, then make an awkward turn around a corner until you are on the west facing slab of the summit block that has nice steps. Still, the last few moves are unprotectable, but a standard belay from a notch will protect from a long fall. Down climb back to the notch and a standard rappel will take you either down the gully (south), or rappel to the col between the summit and the false summit described earlier.
A very good bonus scramble from Sevy is to follow the ridge east to it's terminus at the South Finger of Fate Point 9775, where you will have spectacular views of the Finger of Fate. If your lucky enough to see climbers and have afternoon light, be sure to bring your camera for this vantage point. From here, down climb to the lake just southwest of Point 9775 and find the climber's trail that will retrace your steps.
5.2 miles and 3308 feet gain (one way)
Round Trip Time Estimate: 5-7 hours (without excursion)
Other Routes- Little is known about other routes, but the North West Ridge appears to be a spectacular and interesting line.
