Overview
Exposed but very enjoyable 3rd pitch!
Nice short route at the magnificent East Face of
East Dome(Jebel Rum Massif), first 4 pitches of I.B.M. Route goes directly by crack bow at left side of the wall to great terrace. There are fine exposed face at 3rd pitch, but technicaly it's not difficult & not too sustained. At the last pitch you will need to pass trough interesting fireplace where you'll feel safe and conveniently.
First ascent by C.&Y.Remy 6th May 1986.Appoach
From the Rest House to follow the road that is rise up to ruins. To pass through them and to turn to the left. On a wagging footpath to approach through boulders to a chimney in the left part of a wall. To scramble up on simple rocks to a wide visable fireplace.
route line 15 minutes by foot from Rum Rest House Route Description
crux at first pitch 3rd pitch 150m of pleasant crack climbing on a good rock with the satisfactory protection!
1st pitch 5+/55m : climb at left side of a wide chimney to the overhang crack(there is a sling below), after the crux to follow the crack to the shelf under Y crack system.
2nd pitch 5/25m : to climb to the left inside the fireplace
3rd pitch 5+/35m : to get out of a crack at exposed slab and then to follow the internal corner
4th pitch 5/30m : to go up to the big fireplace & to climb through, then on simple rock to the great terrace
Essential Gear
Standard set of trad gear. 2x50m ropes, set of nuts or rocks, middle and big cams, many slings!
Descent
Descent by the route with 3 or 4 abseils. All belays on the places. Attantion, ropes are jamming, so be ready to climb one more time!