Normal from Penser Joch

Overview

Looking across Mudatsch to the north-western Sarntal Alps

Sarner Weißhorn / Corno Bianco Sarentino has an astonishingly easy normal route - given the fact that it looks like the participant of a Matterhorn lookalike contest when seen from Penser Joch / Passo di Pennes. The first part of the climb is just a hike to the col between Weißhorn and neighbouring Gröllerspitze (2590m, Italian name unknown) from where a short but steep ferrata starts which scales the last 150m of elevation.

Due to the proximity to Penser Joch / Passo di Pennes the climb is supposed to be very popular. However we encountered only a handful of fellow climbers - and when we were already returning to base. September seems to be a good month here, though certainly the weather was to blame for the lack of interest in our fellow climbers.

Getting There

On the main page you can find how to get to Penser Joch /Passo di Pennes. From there a marked trail leads directly to the col between Weißhorn and Gröllerspitze. However, there is a second (virtually unmarked) well trodden path, leading across Ganskragenspitze / Punta di Campo (2322m) and Röthenspitze / Punta Rossa (2441m) into the south face of Weißhorn. Depending on the weather - and whether you have enough time - rather follow this scenic path which gives you the far better views and takes but 30 - 45 minutes longer. Often this route is chosen to return to Penser Joch / Passo di Pennes).

Route Description

General data
  - Start altitude: 2211m (Penser Joch / Passo di Pennes)
  - Summit altitude: 2705m
  - Prevailing exposure: S
  - Type: 2h over paths (2 1/2 h over the additional summits), 30 min on a ferrata
  - Protection: Protected by about 80m of strong fixed cables

Effort: 500m elevation gain (800m across Ganskragen and Röthenspitze)

Power: 1 - easy

Psyche: 2 - exposed on the ferrata

Orientation: 1 - easy (2 - a bit tough across the additional summits)

Directly on Penser Joch / Passo di Pennes you will find a sign leading towards Weißhorn / Corno Bianco. The trail is marked 12a and can't be lost. A second path leads directly up Ganskragenspitze / Cima di Campo, which overlooks the pass on its north-western side. Once on the summit you will be able to see footpaths which eventually lead to Röthenspitze and from there into a little forcella between Röthenspitze and Weißhorn. Don't search for signs - there are some but they are scarce.

Once in the col between Röthenspitze and Weißhorn, both paths recombine to climb underneath the Weißhorn south face to a clearly visible col south of the summit, but north of Gröllerspitze and Mudatsch / Mudaccio. Here - after a few steps - the ferrata starts.

The first secured stretch leads into the wall along a loosely fixed 20m long cable. Meant not as a protection this cable can be used to draw oneself upwards. From the end of this cable the climbing gets far steeper and now a fixed 10m section helps you up. From the top of this section turn left and head (unprotectedly) to a shoulder in the south-west of the summit (nice views down onto Mudatsch / Mudaccio) where the final ascent turns directly towards the summit and is protected by two 10m stretches of fixed cables. The summit ridge is astonishingly broad, some 30 - 40m.

Essential Gear

Just hiking gear. On crowded days a helmet might be advisable to protect against rockfall. However the route is relatively clean. We were the first ones on our summit day and had to produce our rockfall for ourselves :-)

Images

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