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Route |
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27.0988°S / 68.7781°W |
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Overview
The isolation makes even the normal route an experience of the extra class. One may not count however on people masses as at Ojos. Usually one is alone on the summit.Getting There
Have a look to the main page.Route Description
On this ridge one ascends in southern direction, crosses the dark rocks (S27 05,200 W68 47,272, 6020 m) to approximately on a height of 6055 m (S27 05,282 W68 47,236) and keeps themselves now somewhat more west, i.e. one continues to ascend in the valley to the right (west).
Over scree one reaches the lower edge of the snowfield (S27 05,408 W68 47,229, 6131 m). Depending upon conditions one climbs with crampons over this snowfield up to the position S27 05,618 W68 47,156 (6275 m). Here on good path in steep sand/scree one arrives at the next snowfield (S27 05,670 W68 47,130, 6328 m). Ascend that and in suitable place cross to the left (east) over some rocks and snowfields for position S27 05,709 W68 47,092 (6441 m).
Over enormous, partly shaky ashlars and rocks through an enormous labyrinth with rock towers, fissure systems and snowfields to the foot of the enormous summit-calotte (S27 05,766 W68 47,016, 6498). Further over rocks weighing tons, which give despite their immense weight gladly and incline to the side. Then up to the gate through the barrier of an impenetrably seeming rock face (S27 05,831 W68 46,881, 6605 m). The higher one comes, the smaller those rocks become, finally only possessing football size, in order to then change over into slippery scree mixed with sand.
One overcomes the gate in more easily climbing, whereby to falling rocks must be absolutely paid attention. One keeps oneself slightly to the northeast through the rocks and reaches the entrance (S27 05,822 W68 46,859, 6620 m) into the summit labyrinth consisting of enormous rock towers.
Alternatively somewhat more north with the position S27 05,805 W68 46,859 (6617 m) a further passage to the summit exists.
It continues with more easily gradient, however one has to descend also several times a few meters or sidestep obstacles. One keeps first somewhat in more eastern, finally in southeast direction, until one reaches the highest rock tower with a shortened trekking stick with handle as summit cross substitution (S27 05,928 W68 46,686, 6755 m).