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4844 Hits
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77.48% Score
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8 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.28717°N / 11.82009°E |
Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
Season:
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Summer |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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II°/III° |
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Overview
Short ascent and also quite easy and safe. It permits to climb the peak easily from the bivouac "Fiamme Gialle" or in a day from San Martino.The route is marked with stone piles, so easy to find. Along the way is impossible to get lost.
Interesting and funny is the passage called "Buss the Gat" that helps to avoid some passages of III°.
I personally suggest to combine the normal route, to the via ferrata "Bolver", even along the descent (useful some rappeling), to have a more "alpinist" approach to the mountain.
Red line:the route Green line:the ferrata
Approach
The approach start from the bivouac "Fiamme Gialle", on the shoulder ofCimon della Pala.
There are three ways to get this point:
a)Use the cable car from San Martino di Castrozza-Col Verde (1965 m; opening 8.15am; € 6) and climb the via ferrata Bolver (sign.706).
You can also reach the base of the ferrata, starting from "Malga Fosse di sopra"
b)Path from Col Verde to Rifugio Rosetta for about half an hour.
Just past a large gravel-field takes on the left (trailmarked in red, but without tables with signs), a path equipped with some chains that leads to Passo Bettega, 2667 m (1.30 hours from Col Verde), here you meet the path coming from the Rifugio Rosetta and from here directly to the bivouac(3 hours from Col Verde).
c)From San Martino by bubble-car to Col Verde and then by cable car to the "Rosetta".
In 10 minutes you go down to the Rifugio Pedrotti Rosetta (m 2578). From here(sign. 716), follow the path that goes to the Passo Bettega, and from here, easily to the bivouac (hours 2 to 2.30 from the cable).
Route Description
From the bivouac, walkup towards the summit following the numerous stone-piles.Once reached the ridge that separates to the west wall of the Cimon della Pala, overcome it and get the other side descending for few meters (I°).
From here you can see a small cavern, and at the end of it, a hole called "Buss del Gat" connects to the other side of the cavern (space enough for a small person).
The access to the cavern is on short passages of II°. Otherwise you can avoid the cave, passing on the left side along an exposed ledge of III°.
From the summit, view to the "ghiacciaio del Travignolo" and the north wall.
From the summit, view to route. Two climbers are visible in the nearby of "Buss del Gat".
San Martino seen through the Buss del Gat.
After the hole, climb the steep couloir, until its end.
Placed on the wall to your left, a metal cable (similar to ferrata), rises vertically, helping on the hardest part of the route (25-30m III°).
At the end of the cable, you will find a chimney, which must be climbed on your left (II +).
Placed on the wall to your left, a metal cable (similar to ferrata), rises vertically, helping on the hardest part of the route (25-30m III°).
At the end of the cable, you will find a chimney, which must be climbed on your left (II +).
At the end of the chimney, you arrive on the main ridge. From here you can see the impressive cliff on the north-east side.
Than, do a traverse on the north-east side for a dozen of meters untill the base of a short wall at the foot of the main ridge (II).
Climb it and continue on the exposed ridge untill the cross few meters below the highest point (I°).
The summit and my helmet.
Same way for the descent. 30m rope is enough.